The Story of Jacob the Deaf Boston
As a small Boston Terrier puppy, it was difficult to tell if my dog Jacob was deaf or if he was simply following his own agenda. For the first two weeks after I brought him home I blamed myself for choosing the wildest and craziest dog in the entire pet store. Like every new puppy, Jacob did not respond to his name (or any other colorful names I happened to shout at him), nor did he understand the word “No!” regardless of how loudly the word was emphasized. But strangely he didn’t even bat an eyelid when a tin can filled with coins was rattled in his presence. At the end of the day, he slept like he had never slept before, and continued to sleep even after I blew on my trumpet as hard as I could. I came down to two conclusions: either he is the most unresponsive spawn of the devil, or that he may just be… deaf.
Jacob and I were referred to Purdue University Teaching Hospital, one of many veterinary hospitals to administer the Brainstem Auditory Evoked Response (BAER) test. It was a simple, quick, and easy test. Small electrodes were placed under the skin. An electrode was placed in front of each ear, one between, and one behind, the eyes and one at the top of the head. The electrodes recorded any brain activity that was generated due to a sound stimulus transmitted via earphones to the ears. This method made it possible to test the response of each individual ear to the sound. The test results indicated that Jacob had no auditory capability in either ear. In other words, he was completely and utterly deaf.
In the weeks following the confirmation of Jacob’s condition, I quickly learned what it meant to care for a deaf dog. Because I knew he was different from other dogs, I immediately understood that training methods were going to be different than those used on other dogs. For example, as a welcome home from the hospital gift, he received a brand new vibrating collar. It pulsed when I pressed a little white button on the remote control. At first, he was spooked by the vibration of the collar but he quickly learned that when the collar vibrated, a doggie treat was coming his way. Much like a paging system, I used the device to help find him if he was sleeping in a random corner of the house. One press of the button and he would quickly wake up and track me down so that he could claim his treat. In addition, I used the vibrating collar like a clicker trainer. Every time he performed a desired action, I would make the collar vibrate, show him the appropriate hand signal for that action, and then reward him with a treat. It took Jacob two weeks to learn his first sit. After which, he quickly figured out that paying attention to hand signals was the means to getting more treats.
Today, Jacob understands a repertoire of hand signals which include: sit, stay, come, lie down, roll over, give a high-five, dance in a circle on his hind legs, jump onto/through/over desired objects, find a certain person in the house, go for a walk, heel on command, go for a car ride, etc. Jacob’s disability has not prevented him from being one of the most highly functional and well-trained dogs I have met.
Jacob has also learned on his own to compensate for his inability to hear. He takes cues from his cat companion, a gray domestic short-haired sweetheart, named Jasmine. Whenever he sees Jasmine walk purposefully towards the front door, he immediately clues in that someone has arrived at the house, and he runs there to greet the guests as if he had heard them at the doorstep.
Understandably, learning that your pet is deaf can be overwhelming. I personally know many deaf dogs who lead very normal lives. Jacob, my deaf Boston, is a testimony himself. Now he is so well integrated that if you met him on the street, you wouldn’t even guess that he was deaf. It is my hope that this article will reach out positively to pet owners of deaf dogs. Training and living with a deaf dog may take a little more patience than usual, but I assure you, it is a very fulfilling process.
Showing posts with label pets. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pets. Show all posts
Thursday, April 02, 2009
Saturday, November 15, 2008
How To Teach An Old Dog New Tricks
Common knowledge and witticism tells a person that old dogs are incapable of learning new behaviors as is often bespoken in the adage, "you can't teach an old dog new tricks". Despite the numbers of people who would proclaim this decree to be solid truth, we are here to tell you that it nowhere near the being an accurate description of the truth. While it is a little more difficult for an older dog to be trained, it is entirely within the realm of possibility if one uses patience and remains consistent in the dog's lessons throughout the process.
The first step in training an older dog is remembering that this dog has, most likely, already been trained once, be it properly or improperly. The older dog already has preconceived notions as to what acceptable behaviors are and what behaviors are not welcome. If you wish to change one of these behaviors you have to reprogram the dogs thinking process. For instance, a farm dog may have been trained to protect the barnyard and chase stray animals and predators away from the barn. Unfortunately, the dog now lives in your townhouse and thinks your cat is its mortal enemy. We have to reprogram the dogs thinking to make it understand that chasing the cat is not acceptable. So how would we handle this situation?
To start, make certain that the cat will be safe by placing the cat in a pet carrier or some other sturdy structure that prohibits the dog from actually physically contacting the animal but still allows for both animals to see, smell and hear each other. This provides a way for both animals to acclimate to each other in a safe, though possibly a bit stressful, situation. This small step teaches the dog and cat that both are going to have a presence in the home.
After the animals have both calmed a bit give them each a small reward, such as a piece of kibble. Be sure to give the dog lots of verbal praise and affection when it is not barking or trying to get to the cat as this reinforces his good behavior. These rewards are quite important in teaching older dogs as they help to retrain their minds that this behavior is good and is rewarded, thus making them want to repeat the behavior. This will also show the dog that you are accepting of the cat's presence and you expect him to be accepting of the animal also. Repeat this process several times over the course of a week or so, until both animals seem fairly accustomed to the presence of the other and their aggressions seem to have subsided. At this point, you are ready to move on to the next step.
This step will require an assistant to help with one of the animals. Have the assistant leash the dog and hold him firmly on a very short leash. After instructing the assistant to maintain control of the dog, open the pet carrier and bring the cat out carefully. Your dog will likely move towards the cat so be sure the assistant has him held tightly and be careful not to let the cat panic and escape your grasp. Gradually bring them closer together and let them calmly adapt to each others presence. Repeat this step several times over the next few days and by the end of the week, these two animals should be like old chums.
Through this exercise, we see the basics of teaching an old dog something new. It involves first recognizing the dog's previous training and then deciding what is applicable and what needs changed. Then reinforcing the good parts of the dog's behavior with plenty of positive rewards and verbal praise while restricting or redirecting the parts of the behavior you want to stop. We also see that it is necessary to change the behavior in small steps rather than a complete change all at one time. This serves to help the older dog by not confusing him totally. With small steps the animal feels that it is learning new tricks rather than a complete behavior modification. This also allows you to spot trouble before it grows to large to handle. It also is essential to exercise patience and be consistent so that you may indeed teach your old dog some brand new tricks.
Dog Article courtesy of I-Love-Dogs.com
The first step in training an older dog is remembering that this dog has, most likely, already been trained once, be it properly or improperly. The older dog already has preconceived notions as to what acceptable behaviors are and what behaviors are not welcome. If you wish to change one of these behaviors you have to reprogram the dogs thinking process. For instance, a farm dog may have been trained to protect the barnyard and chase stray animals and predators away from the barn. Unfortunately, the dog now lives in your townhouse and thinks your cat is its mortal enemy. We have to reprogram the dogs thinking to make it understand that chasing the cat is not acceptable. So how would we handle this situation?
To start, make certain that the cat will be safe by placing the cat in a pet carrier or some other sturdy structure that prohibits the dog from actually physically contacting the animal but still allows for both animals to see, smell and hear each other. This provides a way for both animals to acclimate to each other in a safe, though possibly a bit stressful, situation. This small step teaches the dog and cat that both are going to have a presence in the home.
After the animals have both calmed a bit give them each a small reward, such as a piece of kibble. Be sure to give the dog lots of verbal praise and affection when it is not barking or trying to get to the cat as this reinforces his good behavior. These rewards are quite important in teaching older dogs as they help to retrain their minds that this behavior is good and is rewarded, thus making them want to repeat the behavior. This will also show the dog that you are accepting of the cat's presence and you expect him to be accepting of the animal also. Repeat this process several times over the course of a week or so, until both animals seem fairly accustomed to the presence of the other and their aggressions seem to have subsided. At this point, you are ready to move on to the next step.
This step will require an assistant to help with one of the animals. Have the assistant leash the dog and hold him firmly on a very short leash. After instructing the assistant to maintain control of the dog, open the pet carrier and bring the cat out carefully. Your dog will likely move towards the cat so be sure the assistant has him held tightly and be careful not to let the cat panic and escape your grasp. Gradually bring them closer together and let them calmly adapt to each others presence. Repeat this step several times over the next few days and by the end of the week, these two animals should be like old chums.
Through this exercise, we see the basics of teaching an old dog something new. It involves first recognizing the dog's previous training and then deciding what is applicable and what needs changed. Then reinforcing the good parts of the dog's behavior with plenty of positive rewards and verbal praise while restricting or redirecting the parts of the behavior you want to stop. We also see that it is necessary to change the behavior in small steps rather than a complete change all at one time. This serves to help the older dog by not confusing him totally. With small steps the animal feels that it is learning new tricks rather than a complete behavior modification. This also allows you to spot trouble before it grows to large to handle. It also is essential to exercise patience and be consistent so that you may indeed teach your old dog some brand new tricks.
Dog Article courtesy of I-Love-Dogs.com
Thursday, October 09, 2008
DANCES WITH DOGS
by Suzanne Clothier
Linda Tellington-Jones uses a beautiful analogy to describe her approach to working with animals: she sees the interaction between human and animal as a dance. For me, a good working relationship with any animal is like a wonderful dance - smooth, joyful and the result of two partners who clearly understand each other.
Of the two choices presented below, consider which "dancing partner" you would prefer.
Partner A has high hopes for you as a dancing partner. As the music begins, you are not sure of what is expected, but you're willing to try. You make a few mistakes, and begin to hesitate. Your partner growls and roughly grabs your arm, telling you in an increasingly louder voice what you are supposed to do. Your arm hurts, and you are beginning to be afraid. You make more mistakes, and your partner becomes angry and frustrated. You are desperately hoping for the music to stop. When the dance finally ends, he stalks off, muttering about your stupidity. You are upset, and not sure you want to dance again.
Partner B has high hopes for you as a dancing partner. As the music begins, you are not sure of what's expected but you're willing to try. You make a few mistakes, and begin to hesitate. Ignoring the music, your partner slows down, and with a smile, explains the basic steps again. He takes it very slow, until you've got it right. He cheers your success, and shows you the next few steps. Each time you succeed, your confidence soars. By the time the music stops, you're eager to learn more, and look forward to your next dancing lessons. Your partner is very pleased with your progress, and comments on what a bright student you are.
None of us would willingly choose Partner A. But what makes Partner B so wonderful? He knows the value of a willing partner, and is able to help you become a willing partner through the use of some basic techniques:
* Recognizing your hesitation as confusion, not stupidity, stubbornness or defiance
* Being flexible as a trainer. Although his initial goal might have been a flawless dance in perfect rhythm to the music, he sees that you are not yet up to that, so he changes his goal in order to help you learn.
* "Chunking down" the steps for you so that it is easy for you to learn and succeed at each step
* Encouraging you by making it pleasant for you to work and learn
These techniques are the hallmarks of any skilled trainer or teacher. A willing dance partner is neither dominant nor submissive, but relaxed, confident and able to follow a clear lead. Within the dog-human relationship, the human usually takes the lead. After all, he's the one who knows which dance is being danced, i.e. that the focus is on the tango and not the cha-cha. (Notable exceptions are tracking and Search & Rescue work, where a clear understanding of subtle signals and body language helps the human follow the dog's lead.)
The thrill of a great performance, whether by a horse and rider, a dog and handler, or two dance partners, is the unison of two into a smooth and effective team. The dictionary defines teamwork as "work done by a number of associates, all subordinating personal prominence to the efficiency of the whole." This is achieved by clarity in communication, response to the subtlest of signals and a willing partnership.
There is no joy in dancing with a reluctant partner, or dancing at the command of an imperious partner. While compromise is a necessary part of partnership, handlers should be very clear about the level of enjoyment expressed by their dog. If you are looking for the utmost in willingness in any activity, your dog must enjoy the activity as much as you do. Almost any dog can be trained to perform the basic mechanics of any exercise. Joyful participation in an exercise comes from the dog's spirit, pride in his work, delight in showing what he knows. And your enjoyment and excitement about an activity can be contagious. If your dog does not naturally find an activity enjoyable, you must be willing to find a way to make it so, or accept the level of performance offered by a reluctant performer.
I find it incomprehensible when handlers complain about their dogs' performance (or lack thereof) while readily admitting that the dog hates the particular activity. Invariably, the sentence ends with, "But I really want this title. All I need is for the dog to do it three times successfully, and then I'll be happy." Focused on a goal that is meaningless to the dog, the handler fails to understand that sometimes the greatest act of love is to let go of personal goals for the sake of the relationship.
Equally incomprehensible is the handler who willingly acknowledges that they lose their patience, or get easily frustrated, or choke under the pressure of competition, or tense up and stop breathing in the ring BUT are unwilling to do anything about it! Critical to any partnership is the ability and willingness to work on yourself, outside of the demands of any activity or partnership. This is particularly true in the dog/human partnership.
Whatever your individual issues may be, if they are negatively affecting on your canine partner, you owe it to yourself, your dog and the partnership to work to resolve or at least minimize the effects. Try hypnosis, counseling, Tai Chi, meditation, yoga, biofeedback or whatever suits you to learn how to control and improve yourself, but be realistic about your responsibility to the partnership. Dogs are generous, forgiving spirits, but they can't always give more to make up for shortcomings on your side.
Whether it's ice skating, ballroom dancing, doubles tennis, barrel racing, kayaking or dog sports, choosing a dance partner requires some basic information. In my mind, the dog/human partnership is very similar to a human/human partnership with one very important exception: the dog cannot make an informed decision to participate and thus is always a draftee, not a volunteer. This puts greater responsibility on the handler to be fair.
Awareness of your skills and limitations as well as your partner's
What do you do best? What do you enjoy? What do you find less enjoyable? What emotional/physical/intellectuals assets and liabilities do you bring to the partnership? Do you choke under pressure or thrive on competition?
Accurate assessment of the kind of partner you need
Are you compulsive about training and need a partner who knows when to say "enough"? Are you reluctant to train frequently, and need a partner who urges you on to practicing as you should? Do you want to reach the pinnacles of achievement, or will you be happy with an adequate performance?
Honest assessment of your goals as a team
What will be required to achieve those goals? Do both you and your partner have the necessary skills? Are both of you equally committed to the hard work necessary? What happens if you fall short of those goals? How will that impact the partnership? What happens if the partnership does not work? How will you alter your goals? How will that impact the relationship?
The pursuit of excellence is a wonderful idea. At its best, any partnership seeks to find the indefinable spot where each partner has given their best, and together, the highest abilities of the partnership are brought to bear on a given goal. It may not be Olympic level performance. It may even seem laughable to those looking on. But excellence is not always judged by external measures. Hold tight to the excellence within your heart, for when it exists, free of ego and outside pressures, the joy of the dance itself shines through.
Linda Tellington-Jones uses a beautiful analogy to describe her approach to working with animals: she sees the interaction between human and animal as a dance. For me, a good working relationship with any animal is like a wonderful dance - smooth, joyful and the result of two partners who clearly understand each other.
Of the two choices presented below, consider which "dancing partner" you would prefer.
Partner A has high hopes for you as a dancing partner. As the music begins, you are not sure of what is expected, but you're willing to try. You make a few mistakes, and begin to hesitate. Your partner growls and roughly grabs your arm, telling you in an increasingly louder voice what you are supposed to do. Your arm hurts, and you are beginning to be afraid. You make more mistakes, and your partner becomes angry and frustrated. You are desperately hoping for the music to stop. When the dance finally ends, he stalks off, muttering about your stupidity. You are upset, and not sure you want to dance again.
Partner B has high hopes for you as a dancing partner. As the music begins, you are not sure of what's expected but you're willing to try. You make a few mistakes, and begin to hesitate. Ignoring the music, your partner slows down, and with a smile, explains the basic steps again. He takes it very slow, until you've got it right. He cheers your success, and shows you the next few steps. Each time you succeed, your confidence soars. By the time the music stops, you're eager to learn more, and look forward to your next dancing lessons. Your partner is very pleased with your progress, and comments on what a bright student you are.
None of us would willingly choose Partner A. But what makes Partner B so wonderful? He knows the value of a willing partner, and is able to help you become a willing partner through the use of some basic techniques:
* Recognizing your hesitation as confusion, not stupidity, stubbornness or defiance
* Being flexible as a trainer. Although his initial goal might have been a flawless dance in perfect rhythm to the music, he sees that you are not yet up to that, so he changes his goal in order to help you learn.
* "Chunking down" the steps for you so that it is easy for you to learn and succeed at each step
* Encouraging you by making it pleasant for you to work and learn
These techniques are the hallmarks of any skilled trainer or teacher. A willing dance partner is neither dominant nor submissive, but relaxed, confident and able to follow a clear lead. Within the dog-human relationship, the human usually takes the lead. After all, he's the one who knows which dance is being danced, i.e. that the focus is on the tango and not the cha-cha. (Notable exceptions are tracking and Search & Rescue work, where a clear understanding of subtle signals and body language helps the human follow the dog's lead.)
The thrill of a great performance, whether by a horse and rider, a dog and handler, or two dance partners, is the unison of two into a smooth and effective team. The dictionary defines teamwork as "work done by a number of associates, all subordinating personal prominence to the efficiency of the whole." This is achieved by clarity in communication, response to the subtlest of signals and a willing partnership.
There is no joy in dancing with a reluctant partner, or dancing at the command of an imperious partner. While compromise is a necessary part of partnership, handlers should be very clear about the level of enjoyment expressed by their dog. If you are looking for the utmost in willingness in any activity, your dog must enjoy the activity as much as you do. Almost any dog can be trained to perform the basic mechanics of any exercise. Joyful participation in an exercise comes from the dog's spirit, pride in his work, delight in showing what he knows. And your enjoyment and excitement about an activity can be contagious. If your dog does not naturally find an activity enjoyable, you must be willing to find a way to make it so, or accept the level of performance offered by a reluctant performer.
I find it incomprehensible when handlers complain about their dogs' performance (or lack thereof) while readily admitting that the dog hates the particular activity. Invariably, the sentence ends with, "But I really want this title. All I need is for the dog to do it three times successfully, and then I'll be happy." Focused on a goal that is meaningless to the dog, the handler fails to understand that sometimes the greatest act of love is to let go of personal goals for the sake of the relationship.
Equally incomprehensible is the handler who willingly acknowledges that they lose their patience, or get easily frustrated, or choke under the pressure of competition, or tense up and stop breathing in the ring BUT are unwilling to do anything about it! Critical to any partnership is the ability and willingness to work on yourself, outside of the demands of any activity or partnership. This is particularly true in the dog/human partnership.
Whatever your individual issues may be, if they are negatively affecting on your canine partner, you owe it to yourself, your dog and the partnership to work to resolve or at least minimize the effects. Try hypnosis, counseling, Tai Chi, meditation, yoga, biofeedback or whatever suits you to learn how to control and improve yourself, but be realistic about your responsibility to the partnership. Dogs are generous, forgiving spirits, but they can't always give more to make up for shortcomings on your side.
Whether it's ice skating, ballroom dancing, doubles tennis, barrel racing, kayaking or dog sports, choosing a dance partner requires some basic information. In my mind, the dog/human partnership is very similar to a human/human partnership with one very important exception: the dog cannot make an informed decision to participate and thus is always a draftee, not a volunteer. This puts greater responsibility on the handler to be fair.
Awareness of your skills and limitations as well as your partner's
What do you do best? What do you enjoy? What do you find less enjoyable? What emotional/physical/intellectuals assets and liabilities do you bring to the partnership? Do you choke under pressure or thrive on competition?
Accurate assessment of the kind of partner you need
Are you compulsive about training and need a partner who knows when to say "enough"? Are you reluctant to train frequently, and need a partner who urges you on to practicing as you should? Do you want to reach the pinnacles of achievement, or will you be happy with an adequate performance?
Honest assessment of your goals as a team
What will be required to achieve those goals? Do both you and your partner have the necessary skills? Are both of you equally committed to the hard work necessary? What happens if you fall short of those goals? How will that impact the partnership? What happens if the partnership does not work? How will you alter your goals? How will that impact the relationship?
The pursuit of excellence is a wonderful idea. At its best, any partnership seeks to find the indefinable spot where each partner has given their best, and together, the highest abilities of the partnership are brought to bear on a given goal. It may not be Olympic level performance. It may even seem laughable to those looking on. But excellence is not always judged by external measures. Hold tight to the excellence within your heart, for when it exists, free of ego and outside pressures, the joy of the dance itself shines through.
Monday, September 22, 2008
Dangerous Dog Treats: What you Need to Know Before you Treat your Pup
By Lee Anne Emig
Bella loves to be treated to a special doggy delicacy every now and then and I love indulging her with such pleasures. Anyone who has ever owned a dog has a pretty good idea what their favorite pooch likes to snack on. Now days we have an infinite amount of choices when it comes to treating members of our pet family. Treats come in all different flavors, shapes, sizes, colors, and consistencies. But we need to keep in mind, for every great dog treat currently on the market; there are also those that are not so good. If you’re one of those pet owners who love to spoil your special canine friend, you’ll want to be aware of some treats that can be potentially harmful to your pet.
Rawhide Chews: What dog doesn’t love to chew on a good rawhide? Rawhides do a terrific job of keeping your pet occupied and keeping their teeth sparkling white and clean. However, rawhides can be a potentially dangerous treat. Rawhides that originate outside of the United States may be preserved with arsenic-based chemicals that can be ingested by your pet. Use caution when shopping for rawhide chews and make certain any rawhide you purchase has been processed in the United States where this preservative is prohibited. If you are unable to determine where a treat originated-- do not buy it! In addition, you want to make sure the rawhides you purchase are the appropriate size for your pet. A smaller breed dog requires a smaller sized treat and a larger breed dog should start with a chew appropriate for its size, as well. Always remember that your pet requires supervision while consuming rawhides to help prevent accidental choking.
Bones: Bones are fragile, splinter easily and do not disintegrate well in a dog’s digestive track. This means your pet may have to pass them through his stool. Undigested bones can lead to a serious impaction and/or constipation requiring a trip to the veterinarian. Bones can also be a choking hazard and can cause possible intestinal bleeding. If a bone shard breaks off; it can pierce the intestinal wall and pass through the abdominal cavity causing hemorrhaging of the intestinal wall and peritonitis (an infection of the lining of the abdominal cavity). Symptoms of possible damage to the intestinal tract include vomiting, rectal bleeding, discharge from the rectum, diarrhea, straining to defecate, and extreme sensitivity to palpation of the abdomen. If your dog has ingested bones recently and shows any of the above symptoms, contact your veterinarian immediately.
Xylitol sweetened treats: Xylitol is a sugar alcohol used as a sweetener in many products, including sugar-free gum and mints, nicotine gum, chewable vitamins, oral-care products, and baked goods. It can be purchased in a granulated form for baking or as a sweetener for cereals and beverages. The ASPCA APCC has had reports of some dogs developing elevated liver enzyme activity within 12 to 24 hours after Xylitol ingestion. Several of these dogs developed acute liver failure subsequent to Xylitol exposure. As few as a couple breath mints containing Xylitol is enough to kill a small dog. I read a story awhile back about a pug that ingested a couple breath mints out of their owner’s purse. The poor little thing ended up in acute liver distress. Be very cautious about keeping any products that may can this sweetener out of the range of your curious pet.
Greenies: Greenies are advertised as a tasty treat to help keep your dog’s teeth clean. However, you need to be aware that "greenies" can cause serious health issues in your pet. At the 2005 American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine (ACIVM) meeting, there was discussion among internal medicine specialists about Greenies causing esophageal obstructions that were difficult to relieve. Complications reported include small intestinal obstructions; stricture, ulceration and perforation. Greenies are also associated with tooth fractures in dogs. Young puppies or dogs who "scarf" their food should not be given this treat since consuming the item quickly may cause large chunks to lodge in the throat. If your dog eats these treats, be aware of potential vomiting, lethargy, trouble swallowing, and difficulty breathing. If you notice any of these symptoms after your dog has eaten this treat, seek medical attention immediately.
Chocolate: Although chocolate is a favorite threat for most humans, it is not an advisable treat to share with your pooch. Chocolate contains a substance known as theobromine, and this substance is toxic to dogs. Theobrimine is part of the xanthnine compound, which is the same family that contains caffeine. A toxic dose will vary from dog to dog, depending on a number of factors such as the weight of the dog and his or her metabolism level. The good news is that it generally takes quite a substantial amount of chocolate to do the dog any harm. In general, the toxic level of theobromine is between 100 and 150 milligrams per kilogram of body weight. It is important, of course, to keep in mind that dogs will vary in their sensitivity to the compound, so it is still important to keep any and all chocolate in the house out of Fido’s reach. Pet owners concerned that their dog has swallowed a toxic amount of chocolate should be on the lookout for the clinical signs of chocolate toxicity. This signs include excitability, irritability, increased heart rate, diarrhea, increased urination, muscle tremors and vomiting.
Thankfully, there are lots of healthy and delicious dog treats readily available for pet owners. Some safe and handy alternatives to pet store treats include fresh carrots, apples, canned pumpkin or plain popcorn and these items can be conveniently picked up on your next trip to the market. To satisfy your pup’s need to chew; consider a synthetic bone like a Nylabone. Nylabones are a good alternative to meat bones or rawhides because they are easily digestible and come in many terrific flavors. Remember to read the ingredient and warning labels on any treat you feed your dog and supervise them while they are eating. By following this simple advice you’re beloved pooch should lead a life full of safe, tasty treats (and terrific belly rubs)!
Bella loves to be treated to a special doggy delicacy every now and then and I love indulging her with such pleasures. Anyone who has ever owned a dog has a pretty good idea what their favorite pooch likes to snack on. Now days we have an infinite amount of choices when it comes to treating members of our pet family. Treats come in all different flavors, shapes, sizes, colors, and consistencies. But we need to keep in mind, for every great dog treat currently on the market; there are also those that are not so good. If you’re one of those pet owners who love to spoil your special canine friend, you’ll want to be aware of some treats that can be potentially harmful to your pet.
Rawhide Chews: What dog doesn’t love to chew on a good rawhide? Rawhides do a terrific job of keeping your pet occupied and keeping their teeth sparkling white and clean. However, rawhides can be a potentially dangerous treat. Rawhides that originate outside of the United States may be preserved with arsenic-based chemicals that can be ingested by your pet. Use caution when shopping for rawhide chews and make certain any rawhide you purchase has been processed in the United States where this preservative is prohibited. If you are unable to determine where a treat originated-- do not buy it! In addition, you want to make sure the rawhides you purchase are the appropriate size for your pet. A smaller breed dog requires a smaller sized treat and a larger breed dog should start with a chew appropriate for its size, as well. Always remember that your pet requires supervision while consuming rawhides to help prevent accidental choking.
Bones: Bones are fragile, splinter easily and do not disintegrate well in a dog’s digestive track. This means your pet may have to pass them through his stool. Undigested bones can lead to a serious impaction and/or constipation requiring a trip to the veterinarian. Bones can also be a choking hazard and can cause possible intestinal bleeding. If a bone shard breaks off; it can pierce the intestinal wall and pass through the abdominal cavity causing hemorrhaging of the intestinal wall and peritonitis (an infection of the lining of the abdominal cavity). Symptoms of possible damage to the intestinal tract include vomiting, rectal bleeding, discharge from the rectum, diarrhea, straining to defecate, and extreme sensitivity to palpation of the abdomen. If your dog has ingested bones recently and shows any of the above symptoms, contact your veterinarian immediately.
Xylitol sweetened treats: Xylitol is a sugar alcohol used as a sweetener in many products, including sugar-free gum and mints, nicotine gum, chewable vitamins, oral-care products, and baked goods. It can be purchased in a granulated form for baking or as a sweetener for cereals and beverages. The ASPCA APCC has had reports of some dogs developing elevated liver enzyme activity within 12 to 24 hours after Xylitol ingestion. Several of these dogs developed acute liver failure subsequent to Xylitol exposure. As few as a couple breath mints containing Xylitol is enough to kill a small dog. I read a story awhile back about a pug that ingested a couple breath mints out of their owner’s purse. The poor little thing ended up in acute liver distress. Be very cautious about keeping any products that may can this sweetener out of the range of your curious pet.
Greenies: Greenies are advertised as a tasty treat to help keep your dog’s teeth clean. However, you need to be aware that "greenies" can cause serious health issues in your pet. At the 2005 American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine (ACIVM) meeting, there was discussion among internal medicine specialists about Greenies causing esophageal obstructions that were difficult to relieve. Complications reported include small intestinal obstructions; stricture, ulceration and perforation. Greenies are also associated with tooth fractures in dogs. Young puppies or dogs who "scarf" their food should not be given this treat since consuming the item quickly may cause large chunks to lodge in the throat. If your dog eats these treats, be aware of potential vomiting, lethargy, trouble swallowing, and difficulty breathing. If you notice any of these symptoms after your dog has eaten this treat, seek medical attention immediately.
Chocolate: Although chocolate is a favorite threat for most humans, it is not an advisable treat to share with your pooch. Chocolate contains a substance known as theobromine, and this substance is toxic to dogs. Theobrimine is part of the xanthnine compound, which is the same family that contains caffeine. A toxic dose will vary from dog to dog, depending on a number of factors such as the weight of the dog and his or her metabolism level. The good news is that it generally takes quite a substantial amount of chocolate to do the dog any harm. In general, the toxic level of theobromine is between 100 and 150 milligrams per kilogram of body weight. It is important, of course, to keep in mind that dogs will vary in their sensitivity to the compound, so it is still important to keep any and all chocolate in the house out of Fido’s reach. Pet owners concerned that their dog has swallowed a toxic amount of chocolate should be on the lookout for the clinical signs of chocolate toxicity. This signs include excitability, irritability, increased heart rate, diarrhea, increased urination, muscle tremors and vomiting.
Thankfully, there are lots of healthy and delicious dog treats readily available for pet owners. Some safe and handy alternatives to pet store treats include fresh carrots, apples, canned pumpkin or plain popcorn and these items can be conveniently picked up on your next trip to the market. To satisfy your pup’s need to chew; consider a synthetic bone like a Nylabone. Nylabones are a good alternative to meat bones or rawhides because they are easily digestible and come in many terrific flavors. Remember to read the ingredient and warning labels on any treat you feed your dog and supervise them while they are eating. By following this simple advice you’re beloved pooch should lead a life full of safe, tasty treats (and terrific belly rubs)!
Saturday, September 06, 2008
How Do I Get Newts In My Pond?
by: Derek Rogers
Newts are a type of amphibian that look a lot like salamanders. However, unlike salamanders, newts spend most or all of their life in the water. They are descended from salamanders, but branched off around sixty million years ago. Now, they're found in many temperate parts of the world, including Asia, Northern Africa, Europe, and North America.
Some types have a terrestrial form (referred to as an eft), that lives on land to find a new home, then come back to the water when mature. Newts are popular among pond owners. They're charming, cute little creatures in their own right. However, having a population of newts also means that your pond is very healthy, since these creatures have somewhat specific living requirements. If you're thinking about colonizing your pond with newts, or setting it up to attract these little creatures, here's some information that might help.
Newts are often food for other creatures. This means that having newts might draw some impressive looking birds to your pond, but it also means you'll have to pay attention to what's living in and around it if you want to keep your newt population alive. Carnivorous fish often pick off these little lizard-like creatures, making it hard to keep the population up. As well, if there are any ducks frequenting your pond, they may eat the vegetation your newts are laying their eggs in, giving them no place to breed. This doesn't mean you have to chase off all predatory birds or remove newt-eating fish from your pond. It does mean that it's a good idea to try to provide habitat and other conditions that encourage a thriving population that won't be damaged by predation.
Another danger that can kill stocked or native newts is the pump of a small pond. If you have a smaller pond which requires a pump for circulation, newts can be sucked into the pump and killed. Even if you use wire mesh, these pumps can kill very small newts. You can solve this problem by using an ultra fine mesh, or by placing your pump underneath a weighted upside down pot with a hole cut in it. Remember to use mesh over this hole as well. These methods will cut down on the number of newts you lose, and on unpleasant filter cleaning.
Newts can live in fairly shallow ponds, and prefer slopes with lots of plants. High density weeds will encourage them. A good environment for newts will help you develop a breeding population that will stand up to even predatory fish and birds. While tadpoles and young newts may fall prey, a pond that can support them will encourage their numbers to increase. Expect to see baby newts around April and May, if your animals are breeding. You can either make your pond suitable for the local species of newt that you'd like to attract (specific conditions vary by species) or purchase newts and stock your pond. The second is more expensive, but also gives you a better chance of seeing these animals live and grow in your waters.
Newts are a type of amphibian that look a lot like salamanders. However, unlike salamanders, newts spend most or all of their life in the water. They are descended from salamanders, but branched off around sixty million years ago. Now, they're found in many temperate parts of the world, including Asia, Northern Africa, Europe, and North America.
Some types have a terrestrial form (referred to as an eft), that lives on land to find a new home, then come back to the water when mature. Newts are popular among pond owners. They're charming, cute little creatures in their own right. However, having a population of newts also means that your pond is very healthy, since these creatures have somewhat specific living requirements. If you're thinking about colonizing your pond with newts, or setting it up to attract these little creatures, here's some information that might help.
Newts are often food for other creatures. This means that having newts might draw some impressive looking birds to your pond, but it also means you'll have to pay attention to what's living in and around it if you want to keep your newt population alive. Carnivorous fish often pick off these little lizard-like creatures, making it hard to keep the population up. As well, if there are any ducks frequenting your pond, they may eat the vegetation your newts are laying their eggs in, giving them no place to breed. This doesn't mean you have to chase off all predatory birds or remove newt-eating fish from your pond. It does mean that it's a good idea to try to provide habitat and other conditions that encourage a thriving population that won't be damaged by predation.
Another danger that can kill stocked or native newts is the pump of a small pond. If you have a smaller pond which requires a pump for circulation, newts can be sucked into the pump and killed. Even if you use wire mesh, these pumps can kill very small newts. You can solve this problem by using an ultra fine mesh, or by placing your pump underneath a weighted upside down pot with a hole cut in it. Remember to use mesh over this hole as well. These methods will cut down on the number of newts you lose, and on unpleasant filter cleaning.
Newts can live in fairly shallow ponds, and prefer slopes with lots of plants. High density weeds will encourage them. A good environment for newts will help you develop a breeding population that will stand up to even predatory fish and birds. While tadpoles and young newts may fall prey, a pond that can support them will encourage their numbers to increase. Expect to see baby newts around April and May, if your animals are breeding. You can either make your pond suitable for the local species of newt that you'd like to attract (specific conditions vary by species) or purchase newts and stock your pond. The second is more expensive, but also gives you a better chance of seeing these animals live and grow in your waters.
Friday, June 13, 2008
Older Dog Health Problems - Common Health Problems Facing Senior Dogs
Older Dog Health Problems Like all animals, as dogs age they tend to develop health problems unique to older dogs. Many dog owners have a difficult time accepting this fact and think that their lively pooch is not an older dog and will not have health problems. Dogs can, however, show signs of aging as early as seven years old. Older dog health problems generally affect larger breeds earlier than small breeds that tend to show signs of aging around 10 to 12 years of age. The fact is that senior dog health problems will eventually be a concern for every dog owner.
Common Health Problems Facing Older Dogs
All dogs are different and, depending on their size, breed and activity level, will exhibit health problems differently. However, there are common health issues that may manifest in all senior dogs including the following:
Joint and bone problems
An overall reduction in their metabolism Difficulty with their eyes and ears
Liver and kidney dysfunctions
Skin becomes thin and less pliable while the coat becomes mottled and patchy
Problems with teeth and gums
Unlike a little puppy who has an endless supply of energy, an older dog will tend to slow down and take longer to lay down or stand up. Instead of bounding up the stairs your senior dog might take each stair one at a time. Your dog may develop arthritis, an inflammation of the joints causing pain and discomfort, which is generally the cause of this slowing down. There are a host of anti-inflammatory drugs that your veterinarian can suggest to reduce the discomfort caused by arthritis.
In many cases, an older dog will have problems with their eyes as they develop cataracts or even glaucoma. A cataract will become obvious to the owner as the eyes have a cloudy appearance and tend to reflect light. Senior dogs may also develop glaucoma, an increased amount of pressure on the eyes, and can cause more serious problems if left untreated.
The entire circulation system and many of the major organs are taxed in older dogs. The heart, lungs, liver and kidneys all become less efficient and the immune systems can become weak and vulnerable to viruses and bacteria. Serious health problems may develop in your senior dog as some of the symptoms develop gradually. It is your responsibility to maintain your older dog's health and remain informed of the possible senior dog health problems that commonly arise.
Helping Your Older Dog Overcome Health Problems As an aging dog inevitably develops health problems, you can help alleviate many of the symptoms and keep your pet comfortable. The most basic thing you can do is simply pay more attention to your senior dog making sure you're aware of the changes taking place. Brush your dog's coat daily and ask your vet if there are special shampoos to help with her skin and coat. Spend time rubbing your hands on his coat feeling for bumps or lesions. Be patient when your dog needs a little extra time walking up the stairs or jumping up into the car. Make sure you make regular visits to your vet and stay current on vaccinations. Brush your senior dog's teeth regularly and have them professionally cleaned occasionally. Provide regular exercise while also making adjustments needed for your dog as she ages.
As your older dog slows down, you might have to adjust her diet to help compensate for the reduction of energy for both her weight as well as her coat and her circulation system. Not only must the overall calorie intake be reduced, but you can also feed your senior dog specially formulated foods made to fit their particular needs. Try to purchase the most expensive, best quality food you can afford and avoid greasy table scraps.
It's an inevitable fact that dogs ageArticle Submission, but you can make a difference in helping your older dog overcome health problems. Keep in mind that in the last eighty years or so the average lifespan of dogs has increased from 7 years to 12. Expanding your knowledge and paying attention to your dogs health will help ensure your dog lives a long and comfortable life.
Common Health Problems Facing Older Dogs
All dogs are different and, depending on their size, breed and activity level, will exhibit health problems differently. However, there are common health issues that may manifest in all senior dogs including the following:
Joint and bone problems
An overall reduction in their metabolism Difficulty with their eyes and ears
Liver and kidney dysfunctions
Skin becomes thin and less pliable while the coat becomes mottled and patchy
Problems with teeth and gums
Unlike a little puppy who has an endless supply of energy, an older dog will tend to slow down and take longer to lay down or stand up. Instead of bounding up the stairs your senior dog might take each stair one at a time. Your dog may develop arthritis, an inflammation of the joints causing pain and discomfort, which is generally the cause of this slowing down. There are a host of anti-inflammatory drugs that your veterinarian can suggest to reduce the discomfort caused by arthritis.
In many cases, an older dog will have problems with their eyes as they develop cataracts or even glaucoma. A cataract will become obvious to the owner as the eyes have a cloudy appearance and tend to reflect light. Senior dogs may also develop glaucoma, an increased amount of pressure on the eyes, and can cause more serious problems if left untreated.
The entire circulation system and many of the major organs are taxed in older dogs. The heart, lungs, liver and kidneys all become less efficient and the immune systems can become weak and vulnerable to viruses and bacteria. Serious health problems may develop in your senior dog as some of the symptoms develop gradually. It is your responsibility to maintain your older dog's health and remain informed of the possible senior dog health problems that commonly arise.
Helping Your Older Dog Overcome Health Problems As an aging dog inevitably develops health problems, you can help alleviate many of the symptoms and keep your pet comfortable. The most basic thing you can do is simply pay more attention to your senior dog making sure you're aware of the changes taking place. Brush your dog's coat daily and ask your vet if there are special shampoos to help with her skin and coat. Spend time rubbing your hands on his coat feeling for bumps or lesions. Be patient when your dog needs a little extra time walking up the stairs or jumping up into the car. Make sure you make regular visits to your vet and stay current on vaccinations. Brush your senior dog's teeth regularly and have them professionally cleaned occasionally. Provide regular exercise while also making adjustments needed for your dog as she ages.
As your older dog slows down, you might have to adjust her diet to help compensate for the reduction of energy for both her weight as well as her coat and her circulation system. Not only must the overall calorie intake be reduced, but you can also feed your senior dog specially formulated foods made to fit their particular needs. Try to purchase the most expensive, best quality food you can afford and avoid greasy table scraps.
It's an inevitable fact that dogs ageArticle Submission, but you can make a difference in helping your older dog overcome health problems. Keep in mind that in the last eighty years or so the average lifespan of dogs has increased from 7 years to 12. Expanding your knowledge and paying attention to your dogs health will help ensure your dog lives a long and comfortable life.
Saturday, May 31, 2008
Lyme Disease Treatment in Pets
by: Niall Kennedy
Lyme disease can be treated with antibiotics, because the disease is caused by a bacterium that is introduced to your pet through a bite from a tick carrying the disease.
Antibiotics will be taken for a long period of time and some times and may not be very effective if your pet has had the disease for a long period of time. Sometimes, your veterinarian can switch the antibiotics so see if that may cure the disease. But, if your pet does get bitten again, the disease can reoccur.
So, the best treatment for lyme disease is in the prevention. Ticks can be found in many different areas and are just waiting for the next warm body. Keeping your pets out of thick brush and high grass will help them from getting ticks, but there are many products on the market today that can in fact keep ticks off of your pets or kill these pests if your pet already has ticks.
Bathing your pet or grooming your pet can also help in preventing ticks the time to attach to your pet. After, your pet has been outdoors, comb him completely and check his skin. This can be a long process if you dog or cat has long hair. But, it will be well worth the time.
If you do find a tick on your pet and it is moving around then you will be able to remove it very easily. Be sure to kill the tick. If the tick has attached it is very important it remove it properly. You can use tweezers or your fingernails. Grab the tick close to your pet’s skin and pull straight out very firmly. Do not allow any of the contents from the tick on your skin or your pet’s skin. Lyme disease can be transmitted through a cut on the skin. And yes, humans can also contract lyme disease.
Lyme disease can be treated with antibiotics, because the disease is caused by a bacterium that is introduced to your pet through a bite from a tick carrying the disease.
Antibiotics will be taken for a long period of time and some times and may not be very effective if your pet has had the disease for a long period of time. Sometimes, your veterinarian can switch the antibiotics so see if that may cure the disease. But, if your pet does get bitten again, the disease can reoccur.
So, the best treatment for lyme disease is in the prevention. Ticks can be found in many different areas and are just waiting for the next warm body. Keeping your pets out of thick brush and high grass will help them from getting ticks, but there are many products on the market today that can in fact keep ticks off of your pets or kill these pests if your pet already has ticks.
Bathing your pet or grooming your pet can also help in preventing ticks the time to attach to your pet. After, your pet has been outdoors, comb him completely and check his skin. This can be a long process if you dog or cat has long hair. But, it will be well worth the time.
If you do find a tick on your pet and it is moving around then you will be able to remove it very easily. Be sure to kill the tick. If the tick has attached it is very important it remove it properly. You can use tweezers or your fingernails. Grab the tick close to your pet’s skin and pull straight out very firmly. Do not allow any of the contents from the tick on your skin or your pet’s skin. Lyme disease can be transmitted through a cut on the skin. And yes, humans can also contract lyme disease.
Thursday, April 24, 2008
Pet Insurance. Podgy Pets Need A Diet Plan
Pet Insurance. Podgy Pets Need A Diet Plan
by: Michael Challiner
Is your pet overweight? Four out of every ten pets are obese says one of the UK 's largest pet insurers.
Owners are overfeeding their dogs and cats with massive portions and fatty foods as well lots of treats from the table. This had led to a huge increase in the number of pet insurance claims for health problems brought on by obesity.
Petplan has revealed that during the last five years it has seen a 60% increase in obesity related claims amongst the 800,000 pets it covers. As a result there are reports that some pet insurers are looking at cutting payouts if your pet is obese.
Obesity in pets causes many of the same problems it does in humans. An overweight pet is prone to many weight related conditions including: joint, ligament and tendon difficulties, breathing and heart problems and diabetes. Obese cats can also contract skin disorders from not being able to groom themselves thoroughly. The overall impact of obesity on your pets' comfort and longevity could be catastrophic.
But perhaps there's good news. It's easier for you to trim down your pets weight than it is for you to fight the battle of the bulge. After all, your pet can't grab the car keys for a trip to the chippy or phone out for a Chinese. They can't even open the refrigerator door on their own! Your pet eats what you give it - so you're in control. So if it's fat, that's your responsibility. Equally, the remedy is in your hands. Although exercise might not be your bag, your pet will always be up for a walk or a game with a toy on a string, or most popular of all doggy games, fetch the stick.
So how do you know if your pet is overweight? A healthy pet will always have some padding on them - but a little is quite enough! Start off by gently rubbing your hands over their ribs. You should be able to feel their ribs and the skin should move easily back and forth. Then step back and look at your pet from the side - if your pet looks pregnant and it shouldn't be, it's overweight! Your pet should also have a obvious waist at the base of the rib cage, a small tuck-in around the stomach area. Now look at your pet from above - it's equally bad news if you can see a bump out from its middle into an apple shape. Birds too can be obese. Examine polly for rolls of fat or a thicker breast.
Certain breeds and species of pet are more likely to develop weight problems. In dogs, labradors and spaniels are especially liable to fatten up, as do beagles, corgis and retrievers. In cats the less-active breeds such as Persians are far more likely to gain weight than the go-go breeds such as Abyssinians and Siamese. And in birds, Amazon parrots are special contenders to expand into perch potatoes.
Please be aware that crash diets aren't a good idea for pets. Be especially careful with cats who can develop a fatal liver problem if they're forced to lose weight too quickly. Pets don't get obese overnight and it should not be forced to slim down too quickly. Only feed at set meal times and be sure to cut out those tip bits. Then introduce more exercise. Your vet should also advise you on a regime of special diet foods. Be sure to do all of this gradually but please, be committed – your pet's life may depend on it.
by: Michael Challiner
Is your pet overweight? Four out of every ten pets are obese says one of the UK 's largest pet insurers.
Owners are overfeeding their dogs and cats with massive portions and fatty foods as well lots of treats from the table. This had led to a huge increase in the number of pet insurance claims for health problems brought on by obesity.
Petplan has revealed that during the last five years it has seen a 60% increase in obesity related claims amongst the 800,000 pets it covers. As a result there are reports that some pet insurers are looking at cutting payouts if your pet is obese.
Obesity in pets causes many of the same problems it does in humans. An overweight pet is prone to many weight related conditions including: joint, ligament and tendon difficulties, breathing and heart problems and diabetes. Obese cats can also contract skin disorders from not being able to groom themselves thoroughly. The overall impact of obesity on your pets' comfort and longevity could be catastrophic.
But perhaps there's good news. It's easier for you to trim down your pets weight than it is for you to fight the battle of the bulge. After all, your pet can't grab the car keys for a trip to the chippy or phone out for a Chinese. They can't even open the refrigerator door on their own! Your pet eats what you give it - so you're in control. So if it's fat, that's your responsibility. Equally, the remedy is in your hands. Although exercise might not be your bag, your pet will always be up for a walk or a game with a toy on a string, or most popular of all doggy games, fetch the stick.
So how do you know if your pet is overweight? A healthy pet will always have some padding on them - but a little is quite enough! Start off by gently rubbing your hands over their ribs. You should be able to feel their ribs and the skin should move easily back and forth. Then step back and look at your pet from the side - if your pet looks pregnant and it shouldn't be, it's overweight! Your pet should also have a obvious waist at the base of the rib cage, a small tuck-in around the stomach area. Now look at your pet from above - it's equally bad news if you can see a bump out from its middle into an apple shape. Birds too can be obese. Examine polly for rolls of fat or a thicker breast.
Certain breeds and species of pet are more likely to develop weight problems. In dogs, labradors and spaniels are especially liable to fatten up, as do beagles, corgis and retrievers. In cats the less-active breeds such as Persians are far more likely to gain weight than the go-go breeds such as Abyssinians and Siamese. And in birds, Amazon parrots are special contenders to expand into perch potatoes.
Please be aware that crash diets aren't a good idea for pets. Be especially careful with cats who can develop a fatal liver problem if they're forced to lose weight too quickly. Pets don't get obese overnight and it should not be forced to slim down too quickly. Only feed at set meal times and be sure to cut out those tip bits. Then introduce more exercise. Your vet should also advise you on a regime of special diet foods. Be sure to do all of this gradually but please, be committed – your pet's life may depend on it.
Christmas Time
Christmas Time
by David the Dogman
Every year comes the message "A Dog Is Not For Christmas, its for life"
A living puppy should not be thought of in the same category as a Christmas toy. A puppy that makes it first appearance, as a gift under the Christmas tree is more likely to be thought of by children as an object or a toy, rather than a family member.
Whilst walking around the Christmas Bazaars and markets do not be tempted to take a dog home with you. If you see a particular dog that you like then arrange with the charity in question to collect the pet a few days after Christmas when everything has settled down. You can then go to the shelter by appointment to collect your new dog or cat. As a sign of good faith one would expect you to make a deposit donation.
I would urge readers to certainly not consider giving a friend a pet for Christmas. If you are thinking of a new pet then give a thought as to how old you will be in ten years time, and where you might be living. Are you prepared to attend training classes? Young dogs are destructive; can you supervise a young dog for the next year? If you do not have a baby what will you do with the dog when a baby arrives? If you have to return to your homeland due to ill health, what will you do with the dog? Most important can you afford the vets fees?
It is always a good idea to check if your vet is offering an emergency service over the Christmas period and to keep the telephone numbers handy. Vet fees are double for out of hours emergencies. If your dog is going into kennels now is the time to check that your pet has up to date vaccinations. Check you have enough medication for the holiday period.
Christmas is the time that we celebrate and we humans do make a lot of noise and have a lot of strangers around the home. This can be a distressing time for our pet dogs and cats Do try to keep to your routine and please do not forget those essential walks. Our Christmas crackers can be terrifying to a nervous dog and it is worth considering a homeopathic remedy called "Rescue" Five drops on the tongue really calms pets and also humans!
Christmas trees are pretty but watch out your pet might be fascinated with the decorations. It is a good idea to keep the tree off the floor and to keep any electrical wires out of reach from pets. The tree lights should only be on when pets can be supervised.
Many dogs and cats have been known to swallow decorations, cracker ornaments and tinsel threads. Watch out for those fruit bowls, which might have walnuts, peach stones and Brazil nuts and of course as we all know human chocolates are dangerous to our pets and can kill. Choc drops made for dogs are not dangerous they do not contain theobromine.
Christmas is the time that we feast and drink and of course we are apt to over eat but I am afraid that dogs often suffer the worst for overeating. No pets should ever be given any form of alcohol and certainly no bones from the Turkey. Yes I agree that there is no problem giving your pet a Christmas treat but please avoid fatty scrapes and do feed in moderation. Never leave tempting treats lying around the floor and remind the children to stop feeding the family pet with sweets.
by David the Dogman
Every year comes the message "A Dog Is Not For Christmas, its for life"
A living puppy should not be thought of in the same category as a Christmas toy. A puppy that makes it first appearance, as a gift under the Christmas tree is more likely to be thought of by children as an object or a toy, rather than a family member.
Whilst walking around the Christmas Bazaars and markets do not be tempted to take a dog home with you. If you see a particular dog that you like then arrange with the charity in question to collect the pet a few days after Christmas when everything has settled down. You can then go to the shelter by appointment to collect your new dog or cat. As a sign of good faith one would expect you to make a deposit donation.
I would urge readers to certainly not consider giving a friend a pet for Christmas. If you are thinking of a new pet then give a thought as to how old you will be in ten years time, and where you might be living. Are you prepared to attend training classes? Young dogs are destructive; can you supervise a young dog for the next year? If you do not have a baby what will you do with the dog when a baby arrives? If you have to return to your homeland due to ill health, what will you do with the dog? Most important can you afford the vets fees?
It is always a good idea to check if your vet is offering an emergency service over the Christmas period and to keep the telephone numbers handy. Vet fees are double for out of hours emergencies. If your dog is going into kennels now is the time to check that your pet has up to date vaccinations. Check you have enough medication for the holiday period.
Christmas is the time that we celebrate and we humans do make a lot of noise and have a lot of strangers around the home. This can be a distressing time for our pet dogs and cats Do try to keep to your routine and please do not forget those essential walks. Our Christmas crackers can be terrifying to a nervous dog and it is worth considering a homeopathic remedy called "Rescue" Five drops on the tongue really calms pets and also humans!
Christmas trees are pretty but watch out your pet might be fascinated with the decorations. It is a good idea to keep the tree off the floor and to keep any electrical wires out of reach from pets. The tree lights should only be on when pets can be supervised.
Many dogs and cats have been known to swallow decorations, cracker ornaments and tinsel threads. Watch out for those fruit bowls, which might have walnuts, peach stones and Brazil nuts and of course as we all know human chocolates are dangerous to our pets and can kill. Choc drops made for dogs are not dangerous they do not contain theobromine.
Christmas is the time that we feast and drink and of course we are apt to over eat but I am afraid that dogs often suffer the worst for overeating. No pets should ever be given any form of alcohol and certainly no bones from the Turkey. Yes I agree that there is no problem giving your pet a Christmas treat but please avoid fatty scrapes and do feed in moderation. Never leave tempting treats lying around the floor and remind the children to stop feeding the family pet with sweets.
Monday, February 11, 2008
7 Tips to Consider When You Walk a Dog
By: Jeff Schuman
When people go to walk a dog, they don’t consider the various obstacles that may stop them from having a pleasant walk. There are several things that can ruin a walk, but if you plan ahead of time and consider these tips it will be relaxing to walk a dog.
Tip 1: Training dog to walk on a leash
It is important that the when you walk a dog, they have been trained or are comfortable walking on a leash. Training dogs to walk on a leash is very simple because most are eager to just get outside and explore.
Tip 2: How many walks a day?
If you walk a dog a couple times a day for a half hour, they will get the energy out of them and go to the bathroom. You can turn it into a one hour ordeal, but splitting it up into morning and afternoon or early night walks allows them to get their energy out at different times of the day rather than all at once.
Tip 3: Social skills for the dog
When you walk a dog you have to remember that a walk is a social experience for them in a sense. Depending on the dog’s obedience, allow them to greet other people and other dogs to build relationships. This will help their self-esteem and better their mood.
Tip 4: Restrict the dog
As mentioned in the previous tip, it is important to let them greet others and explore. However, it is important to restrict the dog to a point and maintain some kind of authority over it. You don’t want the dog to be wandering onto other people’s yards or running wild, so that is why training dogs to walk on a leash is important.
Tip 5: Cleaning poop
To clean up after your dog, it is important to remember to bring a plastic bag or some kind of pooper-scooper.
Tip 6: Vary the walks
As mentioned earlier, when you walk a dog it is the highlight of their day. By varying the route you take, this allows the dog to venture new surroundings and keeps them interested to explore new habitats.
Tip 7: Practice obedience skills
Walking a dog is fun for them, but you can also use it as a time to practice some of their obedience skills. Reviewing the basic skills allows them to enjoy themselves and learn at the same time. You want to be careful NOT to turn it into strictly an obedience time for them though, because it is there most enjoyable time of the day.
When people go to walk a dog, they don’t consider the various obstacles that may stop them from having a pleasant walk. There are several things that can ruin a walk, but if you plan ahead of time and consider these tips it will be relaxing to walk a dog.
Tip 1: Training dog to walk on a leash
It is important that the when you walk a dog, they have been trained or are comfortable walking on a leash. Training dogs to walk on a leash is very simple because most are eager to just get outside and explore.
Tip 2: How many walks a day?
If you walk a dog a couple times a day for a half hour, they will get the energy out of them and go to the bathroom. You can turn it into a one hour ordeal, but splitting it up into morning and afternoon or early night walks allows them to get their energy out at different times of the day rather than all at once.
Tip 3: Social skills for the dog
When you walk a dog you have to remember that a walk is a social experience for them in a sense. Depending on the dog’s obedience, allow them to greet other people and other dogs to build relationships. This will help their self-esteem and better their mood.
Tip 4: Restrict the dog
As mentioned in the previous tip, it is important to let them greet others and explore. However, it is important to restrict the dog to a point and maintain some kind of authority over it. You don’t want the dog to be wandering onto other people’s yards or running wild, so that is why training dogs to walk on a leash is important.
Tip 5: Cleaning poop
To clean up after your dog, it is important to remember to bring a plastic bag or some kind of pooper-scooper.
Tip 6: Vary the walks
As mentioned earlier, when you walk a dog it is the highlight of their day. By varying the route you take, this allows the dog to venture new surroundings and keeps them interested to explore new habitats.
Tip 7: Practice obedience skills
Walking a dog is fun for them, but you can also use it as a time to practice some of their obedience skills. Reviewing the basic skills allows them to enjoy themselves and learn at the same time. You want to be careful NOT to turn it into strictly an obedience time for them though, because it is there most enjoyable time of the day.
Friday, January 18, 2008
Selling Your House - $100,000 Pets
by: Raynor James
Is your pet worth $100,000? It may be if you don’t make accommodations for it when selling your home.
A Hundred Thousand Dollar Pet?
A house I’d seen with a potential buyer in an attractive neighborhood built around two lakes sold for $100,000 less than was typical for the neighborhood. Do you know what caused it to sell for that much less? A pet. Actually, two pets.
I can hear you thinking, “How can that be? Surely she doesn’t know what she’s talking about this time. How could two pets reduce the sales price of a home by $100,000? Is that even possible?” I understand your skepticism, but it’s true. Let me tell you how I know.
When I made the appointment for the potential buyer to look at the house, I wasn’t told about the presence of pets. We arrived at the house, knocked on the door, and when no one answered our knock, I got out my electronic key to open the box containing a key for brokers to use. While I was doing this, we began to hear some loud barking from large dog or dogs inside the house. The buyer said she did not want to go into the house with “dogs on the loose.” I have to admit I wasn’t thrilled with the idea either, so we went on to the next house she was considering.
She asked me if we could see that house the next day sans pets. I called and made arrangements.
The next day we looked at a two story, 5 bedroom, house with a fully finished, walkout basement that supposedly didn’t have pets. It was a nice house, but the whole house smelled strongly of pet odors. The furniture in the basement was shredded – truly not too strong a word to use. I’ve never seen furniture in worse shape. The front of the house was nicely landscaped. The back of the house was a disaster. The door frames and exterior doors were scratched and gnawed. The lawn had beaten paths and patches. There wasn’t a flower or a shrub to be seen. The “buyer” couldn’t get away fast enough.
I later found out the owner of the house had a German Shepherd. The second “dog” was a wolf and shepherd mix. The house stayed on the market longer than typical, the price was reduced several times and the final sales price was $100,000 below what was typical for the neighborhood. Now you tell me, what cost that seller $100,000?
Don’t misunderstand, I know pets are wonderful. Over time my husband and I have enjoyed living with a German Shepherd, two Siamese cats, assorted adopted stray cats, fancy guppies, gold fish, koi, and various sorts of wounded critters our two sons brought home.
Pets enrich your life. They don’t enrich the sales price of your home. Take the right steps though, and they won’t rob you of any of your equity.
Is your pet worth $100,000? It may be if you don’t make accommodations for it when selling your home.
A Hundred Thousand Dollar Pet?
A house I’d seen with a potential buyer in an attractive neighborhood built around two lakes sold for $100,000 less than was typical for the neighborhood. Do you know what caused it to sell for that much less? A pet. Actually, two pets.
I can hear you thinking, “How can that be? Surely she doesn’t know what she’s talking about this time. How could two pets reduce the sales price of a home by $100,000? Is that even possible?” I understand your skepticism, but it’s true. Let me tell you how I know.
When I made the appointment for the potential buyer to look at the house, I wasn’t told about the presence of pets. We arrived at the house, knocked on the door, and when no one answered our knock, I got out my electronic key to open the box containing a key for brokers to use. While I was doing this, we began to hear some loud barking from large dog or dogs inside the house. The buyer said she did not want to go into the house with “dogs on the loose.” I have to admit I wasn’t thrilled with the idea either, so we went on to the next house she was considering.
She asked me if we could see that house the next day sans pets. I called and made arrangements.
The next day we looked at a two story, 5 bedroom, house with a fully finished, walkout basement that supposedly didn’t have pets. It was a nice house, but the whole house smelled strongly of pet odors. The furniture in the basement was shredded – truly not too strong a word to use. I’ve never seen furniture in worse shape. The front of the house was nicely landscaped. The back of the house was a disaster. The door frames and exterior doors were scratched and gnawed. The lawn had beaten paths and patches. There wasn’t a flower or a shrub to be seen. The “buyer” couldn’t get away fast enough.
I later found out the owner of the house had a German Shepherd. The second “dog” was a wolf and shepherd mix. The house stayed on the market longer than typical, the price was reduced several times and the final sales price was $100,000 below what was typical for the neighborhood. Now you tell me, what cost that seller $100,000?
Don’t misunderstand, I know pets are wonderful. Over time my husband and I have enjoyed living with a German Shepherd, two Siamese cats, assorted adopted stray cats, fancy guppies, gold fish, koi, and various sorts of wounded critters our two sons brought home.
Pets enrich your life. They don’t enrich the sales price of your home. Take the right steps though, and they won’t rob you of any of your equity.
Sunday, December 30, 2007
Choosing The Best Pets For Kids
by: Larry Chamberlain
Just what do you say to your kids when they ask for a pet? It is perfectly true that growing up with a family pet can teach children responsibility and to develop their social skills. Also cultivating good feelings towards pet animals helps kids to develop a sense of self esteem and help them to establish trusting relationships with other human beings. But before you give in to your kid's demands for a pony, rabbit, salamander, kitten, boxer, python, or macaw, there is plenty for you to consider.
The first thing to keep in mind is that no matter how much your kid promises that she or he will be the one to take care of the pet, some if not all of that responsibility will fall upon you. That is an inevitable, inescapable fact. No matter how good the child's intention is, there will be some, and perhaps many, occasions when other things take priority in their minds and the pet is unintentionally neglected. That is, the pet would be neglected if you were not there to step in, because somebody has to.
Secondly a child may sincerely believe that the thing that they most want in the world is a cute little black and white kitten, just like their best friend of the moment has. The child has really convinced themselves that they want a kitten, and a kitten will hold their interest for ever and ever. And so it would, until their new best friend of next week gets a pet lizard which is just sooo cool. So you will want to make absolutely sure that the pet that your child is demanding will be a long term passion, and not just a fleeting interest.
It will be a good idea to discuss the idea with the whole family. How do they feel about yapping dogs, hair shedding Persian cats, squawking parrots? If one of your children is allowed their very own pet hamster, will all of the child's siblings demand a pet of their own too? Does anybody in the family suffer with an allergy that would make sharing their home with a certain animal intolerable?
Is the type of animal your child is asking for suitable for your family, and your family's life style? A dog that needs two trips to the park every single day may not be suitable for a family who is away from the house all day. And no matter how much the child promises that they will walk the dog, there will be times that they will fail to do so, (and times that you may not want them to, after dark for example). Choosing pets for kids is not easy, often the type of pet that they plead for would not be the best match for their age and experience with animals.
You should also consider cost. Not only the cost of acquiring a pet, but more importantly the cost of taking care of it. All animals involve a financial commitment, food, vet bills, pet care products etc. You don't want to acquire a pet for your kid only to find that you don't have the financial means to keep it. Small pets for kids often have less costs involved in looking after them than larger pets do.
Just what do you say to your kids when they ask for a pet? It is perfectly true that growing up with a family pet can teach children responsibility and to develop their social skills. Also cultivating good feelings towards pet animals helps kids to develop a sense of self esteem and help them to establish trusting relationships with other human beings. But before you give in to your kid's demands for a pony, rabbit, salamander, kitten, boxer, python, or macaw, there is plenty for you to consider.
The first thing to keep in mind is that no matter how much your kid promises that she or he will be the one to take care of the pet, some if not all of that responsibility will fall upon you. That is an inevitable, inescapable fact. No matter how good the child's intention is, there will be some, and perhaps many, occasions when other things take priority in their minds and the pet is unintentionally neglected. That is, the pet would be neglected if you were not there to step in, because somebody has to.
Secondly a child may sincerely believe that the thing that they most want in the world is a cute little black and white kitten, just like their best friend of the moment has. The child has really convinced themselves that they want a kitten, and a kitten will hold their interest for ever and ever. And so it would, until their new best friend of next week gets a pet lizard which is just sooo cool. So you will want to make absolutely sure that the pet that your child is demanding will be a long term passion, and not just a fleeting interest.
It will be a good idea to discuss the idea with the whole family. How do they feel about yapping dogs, hair shedding Persian cats, squawking parrots? If one of your children is allowed their very own pet hamster, will all of the child's siblings demand a pet of their own too? Does anybody in the family suffer with an allergy that would make sharing their home with a certain animal intolerable?
Is the type of animal your child is asking for suitable for your family, and your family's life style? A dog that needs two trips to the park every single day may not be suitable for a family who is away from the house all day. And no matter how much the child promises that they will walk the dog, there will be times that they will fail to do so, (and times that you may not want them to, after dark for example). Choosing pets for kids is not easy, often the type of pet that they plead for would not be the best match for their age and experience with animals.
You should also consider cost. Not only the cost of acquiring a pet, but more importantly the cost of taking care of it. All animals involve a financial commitment, food, vet bills, pet care products etc. You don't want to acquire a pet for your kid only to find that you don't have the financial means to keep it. Small pets for kids often have less costs involved in looking after them than larger pets do.
Friday, November 30, 2007
Jumping Up 2
by David the Dogman
Teach your dog to sit whenever you ask him to. Sit at the kerb when you cross the road. Sit in front of you. Then when he runs at you, or anyone else, if told sit he will sit.
BUT it has to be practised, and used constantly, not just now and then.
When he sits as you have asked reward him with a titbit...a very tiny one.
Sit while his food is being prepared.
Lying down is another skill that is useful. Lie down, I am busy. Lie down, I want to watch TV. Lie down, while we eat.
If you say DOWN when he jumps up, the word does not mean lie down on the ground and keep still...it means stand on four legs and dont jump up. So you need to use another word, like LIE, or FLAT, for him...
Also QUIET is often the noisiest word in the English language for dog owners ...and all it does is make him think you are helping him bark. So WHISPER "quiet."
When he is excited and jumps at you, turn round and walk away. Pretend you cant see him. Don't speak or shout at him as that is still acknowledging him and he wants your attention. Only speak when he has settled down...it will take time at first but he ought to learn that jumping up is useless as nothing nice happens when he does it...or nasty for that matter. Nothing at all happens.
If he asks to be petted, DON'T. Keep your hands away. Don't sit and stroke him absent mindedly as that gives him too much attention and makes him feel much more important than you are. When he goes away from you, then you can call him and YOU pet him, not because he has forced you to, but because you want to. I have petting times...when I call my dog and make a fuss of her...not too much or she will over excite.
If he asks to play, dont play. Ignore him. Then a few minutes later, IF it is convenient, you call him and start to play.
Pack leaders eat first, and you are the pack leader...he isn't...so he has to learn that...but just eating before him will show him you are boss.
Pack leaders go through doors first...so he must not rush through in front of you.
His change of diet ought to help, but it wont happen overnight...it will take about six weeks, as he will still have the elements of the old food in his system. Many foods on the market have the same effect as those that excite hyperactive children. I had help with this from someone who works with them in the NHS. One Smartie can cause a problem if red is what triggers a child. The same with the dogs. Can be colouring, preservatives or content.
Teach your dog to sit whenever you ask him to. Sit at the kerb when you cross the road. Sit in front of you. Then when he runs at you, or anyone else, if told sit he will sit.
BUT it has to be practised, and used constantly, not just now and then.
When he sits as you have asked reward him with a titbit...a very tiny one.
Sit while his food is being prepared.
Lying down is another skill that is useful. Lie down, I am busy. Lie down, I want to watch TV. Lie down, while we eat.
If you say DOWN when he jumps up, the word does not mean lie down on the ground and keep still...it means stand on four legs and dont jump up. So you need to use another word, like LIE, or FLAT, for him...
Also QUIET is often the noisiest word in the English language for dog owners ...and all it does is make him think you are helping him bark. So WHISPER "quiet."
When he is excited and jumps at you, turn round and walk away. Pretend you cant see him. Don't speak or shout at him as that is still acknowledging him and he wants your attention. Only speak when he has settled down...it will take time at first but he ought to learn that jumping up is useless as nothing nice happens when he does it...or nasty for that matter. Nothing at all happens.
If he asks to be petted, DON'T. Keep your hands away. Don't sit and stroke him absent mindedly as that gives him too much attention and makes him feel much more important than you are. When he goes away from you, then you can call him and YOU pet him, not because he has forced you to, but because you want to. I have petting times...when I call my dog and make a fuss of her...not too much or she will over excite.
If he asks to play, dont play. Ignore him. Then a few minutes later, IF it is convenient, you call him and start to play.
Pack leaders eat first, and you are the pack leader...he isn't...so he has to learn that...but just eating before him will show him you are boss.
Pack leaders go through doors first...so he must not rush through in front of you.
His change of diet ought to help, but it wont happen overnight...it will take about six weeks, as he will still have the elements of the old food in his system. Many foods on the market have the same effect as those that excite hyperactive children. I had help with this from someone who works with them in the NHS. One Smartie can cause a problem if red is what triggers a child. The same with the dogs. Can be colouring, preservatives or content.
Friday, October 19, 2007
Bloat in dogs
by:Larry Glickman
Several times a week I receive a phone call from someone whose dog has died of bloat. Usually my role is to provide a sympathetic ear and assure the callers that there was nothing they could have changed to prevent the incident. Our current knowledge of bloat does not allow us to identify specific events that trigger an acute episode in susceptible dogs, although some form of "stress" was probably involved. One of our long-term research objectives is to better define what constitutes stress for dogs and to measure their physiological response to it. However, the primary goal of the research is to determine why some dogs are more susceptible to bloat than others, i.e., what are the risk factors for bloat. This has led to studies of the physical conformation of dogs, their diet, vaccination histories, and even to new ways to evaluate a dog's temperament and personality.
The overall bloat fatality rate approaches 30% for dogs with a dilated, rotated stomach. Approximately half of the dogs that die with a rotated stomach will do so before veterinary medical or surgical treatment is obtained. Dogs may be found dead or die on the way to the hospital, or may be euthanized by the veterinarian because of their poor prognosis or the owner's financial considerations. In contrast, dogs properly treated have [greater than] 80% probability of surviving a bloat episode and then leading a normal life. Veterinarians over the past 2 decades have reduced dramatically the postoperative fatality rate from gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV) from [greater than]50% to [less than]20% by using improved therapy for shock, safer anesthetic agents, and better surgical techniques.
Too often, however, owners of dogs that died of bloat tell me that they had recognized that the dog had a serious problem and rushed the dog to a veterinarian, only to be told that it was probably only a "belly ache," or that the dog's stomach was dilated, but not rotated. Sometimes the veterinarian recognized dilatation, but not a rotation (volvulus, torsion), passed a stomach tube to relieve the pressure, and sent the dog home. Or the dog was diagnosed as having dilatation and rotation, and a stomach tube was passed to relieve the pressure, but surgery (gastropexy) to permanently correct the rotation was delayed, either because the dog was thought to be too ill to withstand the surgery, or the veterinarian was not adequately equipped or prepared at the time to perform the operation. The latter may occur if the veterinarian is in the midst of busy office hours or if -- especially at night -- there is insufficient technical help available to properly perform the surgery, which requires careful administration of anesthesia, appropriate fluid therapy, and close monitoring of the dog's vital signs. Numerous clinical reports from Europe and the United States show that gastropexy to prevent gastric rotation should be performed as soon as possible following stomach decompression on all dogs with gastric dilatation, whether or not the stomach is thought to be rotated at the time. The recurrence rate of gastric volvulus in dogs treated for bloat conservatively, i.e., without surgery, approaches 100%, whereas the recurrence rate following gastropexy is [less than]5%. The stomach of a dog that has had a gastropexy can still dilate, but it is unlikely to rotate, so if dilatation does occur after gastropexy, it can probably be treated conservatively.
What does all this mean to you? If your dog suddenly develops a distended abdomen, appears uncomfortable, and gets progressively worse, rush the dog to a veterinarian, preferably one equipped to do emergency surgery. Gastric distention is a life-threatening condition, even if the stomach has not rotated. Immediate decompression is required to relieve pressure on blood vessels and to restore circulation to the heart, because shock can occur within minutes of the first clinical signs. Fluid therapy is indicated to treat shock, and drugs may be needed if the heart rhythm is irregular. This should be followed as soon as possible by surgery to reposition and immobilize (gastropexy) the stomach before it is irreversibly damaged. The best indicators of how well the dog will do postoperatively are its physical condition (state of shock) prior to surgery and the appearance of the stomach during surgery (since dead or dying stomach tissue implies a very poor prognosis). Intensive monitoring is usually required for several days postoperatively in case complications occur.
If you suspect your dog has bloat, but the veterinarian dismisses it as a minor problem, inquire about radiographs to rule out GDV. If dilatation with or without volvulus is diagnosed and the stomach is decompressed, either by passing a stomach tube or by piercing the stomach with a large needle (trochar) passed through the body wall, the dog should be considered as a candidate for immediate surgery, unless its condition is too unstable to tolerate anesthesia. If the veterinarian recommends that surgery be delayed for any other reason, seek a second opinion immediately. Delay in surgery will increase the chance of the stomach rotating if it hasn't already, or will decrease the chance of the dog surviving if rotation has occurred.
Following is an excerpt of a letter that illustrates some of these points. "I noticed Kelly [an Irish Setter] attempting to vomit with nothing coming up. Grass? Chicken bone? I watched her and we continued to walk. She was happy and greeted people, wagging her tail, ... and had fun. We went home and Kelly went upstairs where she attempted to vomit several times. I immediately called my vet. Kelly and I arrived at the veterinarian's office within five minutes of the phone call. I told the veterinarian that Kelly had vomited two or three times with nothing coming up. I said that she looked a little broad around the ribs. The veterinarian did a physical examination and concluded that Kelly's problem was just a "stomach ache." ... I was directed to give her Pepto Bismol®. I took Kelly home and she lay down on the bed. About 45 minutes later she went out to the back yard. When I went out 10 minutes later, I found her bloated up. I grabbed her, took her back to the veterinary hospital, but she died on the operating table." (Comment: There is no guarantee that if radiographs had been taken during the first veterinary visit, Kelly's outcome would have been different. However, radiographs might have confirmed the presence of gastric dilatation or volvulus, and thus the need for immediate gastric decompression and surgery.) Be prepared -- Teamwork between you and your veterinarian is your dog's best hope when it comes to bloat.
For more information on the early signs of bloat, talk with your veterinarian. Ask what treatment he/she recommends for bloat, and if their hospital has a 24-hour emergency service.
Several times a week I receive a phone call from someone whose dog has died of bloat. Usually my role is to provide a sympathetic ear and assure the callers that there was nothing they could have changed to prevent the incident. Our current knowledge of bloat does not allow us to identify specific events that trigger an acute episode in susceptible dogs, although some form of "stress" was probably involved. One of our long-term research objectives is to better define what constitutes stress for dogs and to measure their physiological response to it. However, the primary goal of the research is to determine why some dogs are more susceptible to bloat than others, i.e., what are the risk factors for bloat. This has led to studies of the physical conformation of dogs, their diet, vaccination histories, and even to new ways to evaluate a dog's temperament and personality.
The overall bloat fatality rate approaches 30% for dogs with a dilated, rotated stomach. Approximately half of the dogs that die with a rotated stomach will do so before veterinary medical or surgical treatment is obtained. Dogs may be found dead or die on the way to the hospital, or may be euthanized by the veterinarian because of their poor prognosis or the owner's financial considerations. In contrast, dogs properly treated have [greater than] 80% probability of surviving a bloat episode and then leading a normal life. Veterinarians over the past 2 decades have reduced dramatically the postoperative fatality rate from gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV) from [greater than]50% to [less than]20% by using improved therapy for shock, safer anesthetic agents, and better surgical techniques.
Too often, however, owners of dogs that died of bloat tell me that they had recognized that the dog had a serious problem and rushed the dog to a veterinarian, only to be told that it was probably only a "belly ache," or that the dog's stomach was dilated, but not rotated. Sometimes the veterinarian recognized dilatation, but not a rotation (volvulus, torsion), passed a stomach tube to relieve the pressure, and sent the dog home. Or the dog was diagnosed as having dilatation and rotation, and a stomach tube was passed to relieve the pressure, but surgery (gastropexy) to permanently correct the rotation was delayed, either because the dog was thought to be too ill to withstand the surgery, or the veterinarian was not adequately equipped or prepared at the time to perform the operation. The latter may occur if the veterinarian is in the midst of busy office hours or if -- especially at night -- there is insufficient technical help available to properly perform the surgery, which requires careful administration of anesthesia, appropriate fluid therapy, and close monitoring of the dog's vital signs. Numerous clinical reports from Europe and the United States show that gastropexy to prevent gastric rotation should be performed as soon as possible following stomach decompression on all dogs with gastric dilatation, whether or not the stomach is thought to be rotated at the time. The recurrence rate of gastric volvulus in dogs treated for bloat conservatively, i.e., without surgery, approaches 100%, whereas the recurrence rate following gastropexy is [less than]5%. The stomach of a dog that has had a gastropexy can still dilate, but it is unlikely to rotate, so if dilatation does occur after gastropexy, it can probably be treated conservatively.
What does all this mean to you? If your dog suddenly develops a distended abdomen, appears uncomfortable, and gets progressively worse, rush the dog to a veterinarian, preferably one equipped to do emergency surgery. Gastric distention is a life-threatening condition, even if the stomach has not rotated. Immediate decompression is required to relieve pressure on blood vessels and to restore circulation to the heart, because shock can occur within minutes of the first clinical signs. Fluid therapy is indicated to treat shock, and drugs may be needed if the heart rhythm is irregular. This should be followed as soon as possible by surgery to reposition and immobilize (gastropexy) the stomach before it is irreversibly damaged. The best indicators of how well the dog will do postoperatively are its physical condition (state of shock) prior to surgery and the appearance of the stomach during surgery (since dead or dying stomach tissue implies a very poor prognosis). Intensive monitoring is usually required for several days postoperatively in case complications occur.
If you suspect your dog has bloat, but the veterinarian dismisses it as a minor problem, inquire about radiographs to rule out GDV. If dilatation with or without volvulus is diagnosed and the stomach is decompressed, either by passing a stomach tube or by piercing the stomach with a large needle (trochar) passed through the body wall, the dog should be considered as a candidate for immediate surgery, unless its condition is too unstable to tolerate anesthesia. If the veterinarian recommends that surgery be delayed for any other reason, seek a second opinion immediately. Delay in surgery will increase the chance of the stomach rotating if it hasn't already, or will decrease the chance of the dog surviving if rotation has occurred.
Following is an excerpt of a letter that illustrates some of these points. "I noticed Kelly [an Irish Setter] attempting to vomit with nothing coming up. Grass? Chicken bone? I watched her and we continued to walk. She was happy and greeted people, wagging her tail, ... and had fun. We went home and Kelly went upstairs where she attempted to vomit several times. I immediately called my vet. Kelly and I arrived at the veterinarian's office within five minutes of the phone call. I told the veterinarian that Kelly had vomited two or three times with nothing coming up. I said that she looked a little broad around the ribs. The veterinarian did a physical examination and concluded that Kelly's problem was just a "stomach ache." ... I was directed to give her Pepto Bismol®. I took Kelly home and she lay down on the bed. About 45 minutes later she went out to the back yard. When I went out 10 minutes later, I found her bloated up. I grabbed her, took her back to the veterinary hospital, but she died on the operating table." (Comment: There is no guarantee that if radiographs had been taken during the first veterinary visit, Kelly's outcome would have been different. However, radiographs might have confirmed the presence of gastric dilatation or volvulus, and thus the need for immediate gastric decompression and surgery.) Be prepared -- Teamwork between you and your veterinarian is your dog's best hope when it comes to bloat.
For more information on the early signs of bloat, talk with your veterinarian. Ask what treatment he/she recommends for bloat, and if their hospital has a 24-hour emergency service.
Monday, September 10, 2007
The Top Five Tips For Finding A Dog Friendly Hotel
Before you set out on a trip with your dog, you should gather all the information you can about possible hotels, motels, or bed and breakfasts at your destination. Currently there are 65 million dog owners in the US and approximately 19% take their pets with them when they travel. According to AAA, more than 13,000 hotels nationwide are now pet friendly.
Some hotels require the owner to sign an agreement to pay for any damage that the dog may do, while others require a refundable damage deposit. The larger hotel chains won’t charge extra for the pets stay, while others charge $10.00 to $50.00 extra per pet per day, so it pays to shop around. Most of the hotels surveyed prefer smaller dogs, (less than 30 pounds), but many have no weight limit, so again, do your homework before you go. The list of amenities for pets is growing, especially in the larger hotel chains. A short list includes, “doggie daycare”, walking services, pet play areas, grooming services including “pawdicures”, and even special pet menus that include foods prepared by the hotels chef, served in a special doggie bowl, placemat, bottled water, and a complimentary chew toy. You can do much to make your dog popular with the management. Inquire at the time you register where you can take him for a walk and all pet policies that apply. The following tips can make the difference between being invited back and being asked to leave:
-Be respectful toward other guests and always keep your pet on a leash when you leave your hotel room -Keep identification on your pet, and some hotels require proof of vaccinations. -After walking your pet always clean up after him -Keep your pet contained in the bathroom or in a crate if he is left alone in the room -Always take your pets personal items such as his food bowl, chew toys, bed or blanket to help him in strange surroundings -Avoid messes on the carpet by having your pet eat in the bathroom
Most dogs are excellent travelers, better behaved than some children. The strange environments and experiences will make your pet feel more dependent on you. He will stick closer to you and obey you more promptly than he does at home. So the responsibility for his good behavior rests on your shoulders. You will have no problems if you simply anticipate your dog’s needs and provide for them.
Some hotels require the owner to sign an agreement to pay for any damage that the dog may do, while others require a refundable damage deposit. The larger hotel chains won’t charge extra for the pets stay, while others charge $10.00 to $50.00 extra per pet per day, so it pays to shop around. Most of the hotels surveyed prefer smaller dogs, (less than 30 pounds), but many have no weight limit, so again, do your homework before you go. The list of amenities for pets is growing, especially in the larger hotel chains. A short list includes, “doggie daycare”, walking services, pet play areas, grooming services including “pawdicures”, and even special pet menus that include foods prepared by the hotels chef, served in a special doggie bowl, placemat, bottled water, and a complimentary chew toy. You can do much to make your dog popular with the management. Inquire at the time you register where you can take him for a walk and all pet policies that apply. The following tips can make the difference between being invited back and being asked to leave:
-Be respectful toward other guests and always keep your pet on a leash when you leave your hotel room -Keep identification on your pet, and some hotels require proof of vaccinations. -After walking your pet always clean up after him -Keep your pet contained in the bathroom or in a crate if he is left alone in the room -Always take your pets personal items such as his food bowl, chew toys, bed or blanket to help him in strange surroundings -Avoid messes on the carpet by having your pet eat in the bathroom
Most dogs are excellent travelers, better behaved than some children. The strange environments and experiences will make your pet feel more dependent on you. He will stick closer to you and obey you more promptly than he does at home. So the responsibility for his good behavior rests on your shoulders. You will have no problems if you simply anticipate your dog’s needs and provide for them.
Thursday, August 09, 2007
Natural Food for Dogs and Cats
by: David the Dogman
I have discovered that when it comes to feeding dogs that many owners are blinded by myths and misconceptions. Many owners insist that their dogs are practically human and so should get along fine on the same food that the rest of the family is eating. The irony here, of course, is that most human meals are not all that nourishing. What may be healthy enough and appropriate for humans may be not be suitable for a dog or cat. I can understand that many owners will not give their dogs and cats conventional pet food. For those who are looking for a healthy diet I offer the following diet, which is on the basis that I have witnessed sick dogs that have been on steroids and strong drugs scratching and licking themselves, failing to put on weight that have completely changed after a few weeks on this diet. The food has to be naturally fresh, but for food to be fresh and alive it must not be sterile and neutral in biological form. The food must not have any chemical contamination or additives. The first rule of this diet is that no food can be cooked in a microwave. Bear in mind that dogs and cats are hunters and need fresh food, and it should be varied and always balanced. Meat and fish should be served raw but vegetables and cereals should be cooked lightly. Exercise your pet every day and only give this diet once a day preferably after exercise in the morning. Cats may have two meals a day.
THE MEAL OF THE DAY
Cook for 2 minutes in boiled water 3 to 4 vegetables (6/800 grams) with brown rice, or oats, pasta cereals, whole wheat bread.
Raw meat or fish approx.
* 200 grams of beef, stomach, heart, jaw chuck (The least expensive meat)
* Give only horse meat if the dog is to have long periods of exercise and training.
* Chicken: Heart, stomach, no liver or kidneys.
* Never give your pet pork or pork products.
Every seventh day no meat or fish, only vegetables with cereals.
Include every day two tablespoons of one of the following: - olive oil, wheatgerm, cod liver oil, brewers yeast, seaweed, honey.
Never give your dog any snacks of sugar, sweets, and chocolates. Raw fruit or vegetables, raw cereals, nuts avocado, olive, carrot, apple.
I have discovered that when it comes to feeding dogs that many owners are blinded by myths and misconceptions. Many owners insist that their dogs are practically human and so should get along fine on the same food that the rest of the family is eating. The irony here, of course, is that most human meals are not all that nourishing. What may be healthy enough and appropriate for humans may be not be suitable for a dog or cat. I can understand that many owners will not give their dogs and cats conventional pet food. For those who are looking for a healthy diet I offer the following diet, which is on the basis that I have witnessed sick dogs that have been on steroids and strong drugs scratching and licking themselves, failing to put on weight that have completely changed after a few weeks on this diet. The food has to be naturally fresh, but for food to be fresh and alive it must not be sterile and neutral in biological form. The food must not have any chemical contamination or additives. The first rule of this diet is that no food can be cooked in a microwave. Bear in mind that dogs and cats are hunters and need fresh food, and it should be varied and always balanced. Meat and fish should be served raw but vegetables and cereals should be cooked lightly. Exercise your pet every day and only give this diet once a day preferably after exercise in the morning. Cats may have two meals a day.
THE MEAL OF THE DAY
Cook for 2 minutes in boiled water 3 to 4 vegetables (6/800 grams) with brown rice, or oats, pasta cereals, whole wheat bread.
Raw meat or fish approx.
* 200 grams of beef, stomach, heart, jaw chuck (The least expensive meat)
* Give only horse meat if the dog is to have long periods of exercise and training.
* Chicken: Heart, stomach, no liver or kidneys.
* Never give your pet pork or pork products.
Every seventh day no meat or fish, only vegetables with cereals.
Include every day two tablespoons of one of the following: - olive oil, wheatgerm, cod liver oil, brewers yeast, seaweed, honey.
Never give your dog any snacks of sugar, sweets, and chocolates. Raw fruit or vegetables, raw cereals, nuts avocado, olive, carrot, apple.
Thursday, August 02, 2007
Dog and Cat Allergies
by: David the Dogman
There is no breed of dog not even a Poodle or Chihuahua that will not trigger sneezes, rashes or asthmatic reactions. Allergic reactions can vary from dog to dog or cat to cat according to Jonathan Corren Clinical Professor of medicine and Director of the Allergy Research Foundation at the University of California.
It is the Dander and top skin and certain proteins in saliva and urine that cause people allergic problems according to Emily Rothstein a resident in dermatology at Cornhill College of Veterinary Medicine. Any dog or cat that urinates or licks has the potential to be an allergic-type breed.
Most research on pet allergies has centered on allergies to cats, maybe this is no surprise because they are twice as likely to make their owners sneeze as dogs. Longer haired cats tend to shed less allergen and consequently owners with allergies have fewer reactions. Cats that are short haired traditionally give off more allergen, it is not known if this is true for dogs.
HOW TO BEAT PET ALLERGIES
Research has shown that if a cat or dog is washed about once a week the airborne allergens are cut drastically. It is recommended that dogs should be kept outdoors at night. Dogs and cats that live indoors should not spend any time in the allergic person's bedroom and never allowed on beds.
Dander collects in the carpets. upholstered furniture and bedding so for those suffering allergies it is better to be without carpets and have wooden furniture or leather. Bedding should be encased in plastic and if it is impossible to remove carpets then these should be steamed cleaned every three months to remove allergens. It is also advisable to wash walls and floors.
Animal allergens are very small and very sticky and once they are secreted they dry on the animals fur, become stuck on fur and become airborne during petting and grooming. According to Bonnie Eiche a spokeswoman for the Asthma and Allergy Foundation "They are so small that they can stay airborne for a long time and because they are sticky, they adhere to walls, clothing, and heating and cooling ducts."
About 9 years ago I gave up smoking and noticed that I was coughing and choking when handling dogs. After a few tests I was duly informed " Mr. Dogman you are an asthmatic and allergic to dogs" "No not me....not possible thats my job" but sadly I now have to take all kind of things to help control my allergic symptoms from medication to inhalers and most important I wash my hands more than a surgeon and change my clothes about three times a day and wash my dogs every week.
But with all my allergies I could not live without dogs because I feel that dogs enhance our quality of life and are worth having around.
There is no breed of dog not even a Poodle or Chihuahua that will not trigger sneezes, rashes or asthmatic reactions. Allergic reactions can vary from dog to dog or cat to cat according to Jonathan Corren Clinical Professor of medicine and Director of the Allergy Research Foundation at the University of California.
It is the Dander and top skin and certain proteins in saliva and urine that cause people allergic problems according to Emily Rothstein a resident in dermatology at Cornhill College of Veterinary Medicine. Any dog or cat that urinates or licks has the potential to be an allergic-type breed.
Most research on pet allergies has centered on allergies to cats, maybe this is no surprise because they are twice as likely to make their owners sneeze as dogs. Longer haired cats tend to shed less allergen and consequently owners with allergies have fewer reactions. Cats that are short haired traditionally give off more allergen, it is not known if this is true for dogs.
HOW TO BEAT PET ALLERGIES
Research has shown that if a cat or dog is washed about once a week the airborne allergens are cut drastically. It is recommended that dogs should be kept outdoors at night. Dogs and cats that live indoors should not spend any time in the allergic person's bedroom and never allowed on beds.
Dander collects in the carpets. upholstered furniture and bedding so for those suffering allergies it is better to be without carpets and have wooden furniture or leather. Bedding should be encased in plastic and if it is impossible to remove carpets then these should be steamed cleaned every three months to remove allergens. It is also advisable to wash walls and floors.
Animal allergens are very small and very sticky and once they are secreted they dry on the animals fur, become stuck on fur and become airborne during petting and grooming. According to Bonnie Eiche a spokeswoman for the Asthma and Allergy Foundation "They are so small that they can stay airborne for a long time and because they are sticky, they adhere to walls, clothing, and heating and cooling ducts."
About 9 years ago I gave up smoking and noticed that I was coughing and choking when handling dogs. After a few tests I was duly informed " Mr. Dogman you are an asthmatic and allergic to dogs" "No not me....not possible thats my job" but sadly I now have to take all kind of things to help control my allergic symptoms from medication to inhalers and most important I wash my hands more than a surgeon and change my clothes about three times a day and wash my dogs every week.
But with all my allergies I could not live without dogs because I feel that dogs enhance our quality of life and are worth having around.
Monday, July 30, 2007
Many Forms of Dog Beds
by: James Hunt
In today's society animals are sometimes being treated better than humans are. One of the latest ways people have created to pamper their pets are pet beds. These beds come in many forms many forms and for many animals. The most popular form of pet beds is dog beds. Dog beds are very popular among pet owners. In most cases the people who spend a great deal of money on a bed for their dog are those who could be considered upper class. Other people may possibly make their dog beds.
Dog beds take many forms. Traditionally dogs were given a box with a blanket, if they were permitted to stay inside the house. In most cases the dog was placed outside in the yard in a doghouse, which once again had a blanket. The box and the blanket was the easiest and simplest form that a dog bed could take. As years went on and people became more and more aware of animal rights and what classified as animal abuse, they began treating their pets better and tried to find more comfortable places for their dogs to sleep. People exchanged boxes and blankets for pillows. People either made or purchased oversized pillows for their dogs to sleep on. At first the pillows were thin and not really fancy. There were made out of whatever materials were available. Today however, people are willing to spend hundreds of dollars for a large pillow for their dog. These pillows or dog beds can be purchased at most pet supply stores or in pet stores in general. You may also find some form of dog bed at the vets office. If you live in certain parts of the United States there are people who specialize in making dog beds. These designers of dog beds make them in a variety of shapes and sizes. They are made out of variety of materials. For example you could have dog beds that are made out of silk or you could have bed made from a more simple material such as flannel. You can also find dog beds online at some dog supply stores. Here you will be able to browse through the selection of dog beds that are available. The prices of the dog beds will vary depending on make and size and of course material. There may be an additional cost for shipping and handling when you order your dog beds online.
In today's society animals are sometimes being treated better than humans are. One of the latest ways people have created to pamper their pets are pet beds. These beds come in many forms many forms and for many animals. The most popular form of pet beds is dog beds. Dog beds are very popular among pet owners. In most cases the people who spend a great deal of money on a bed for their dog are those who could be considered upper class. Other people may possibly make their dog beds.
Dog beds take many forms. Traditionally dogs were given a box with a blanket, if they were permitted to stay inside the house. In most cases the dog was placed outside in the yard in a doghouse, which once again had a blanket. The box and the blanket was the easiest and simplest form that a dog bed could take. As years went on and people became more and more aware of animal rights and what classified as animal abuse, they began treating their pets better and tried to find more comfortable places for their dogs to sleep. People exchanged boxes and blankets for pillows. People either made or purchased oversized pillows for their dogs to sleep on. At first the pillows were thin and not really fancy. There were made out of whatever materials were available. Today however, people are willing to spend hundreds of dollars for a large pillow for their dog. These pillows or dog beds can be purchased at most pet supply stores or in pet stores in general. You may also find some form of dog bed at the vets office. If you live in certain parts of the United States there are people who specialize in making dog beds. These designers of dog beds make them in a variety of shapes and sizes. They are made out of variety of materials. For example you could have dog beds that are made out of silk or you could have bed made from a more simple material such as flannel. You can also find dog beds online at some dog supply stores. Here you will be able to browse through the selection of dog beds that are available. The prices of the dog beds will vary depending on make and size and of course material. There may be an additional cost for shipping and handling when you order your dog beds online.
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