by:Dog Article
There are many different approaches to dog training and many different ways of implementing each of those approaches. Most techniques utilized today however, are premised upon the idea that positive reinforcement is likely to create the best results. Virtually every truly functional dog training system is outgrowth of positive reinforcement thinking.
Regardless of which specific program a dog owner may choose to adopt, there are common pitfalls that can be avoided. Dog owners are particularly susceptible to making three critical errors, which if avoided will make the training process far more enjoyable and effective. Three of the most common mistakes are inconsistency, impatience and treating the dog as a subject instead of a training partner.
Inconsistency
Consistency may be hobgoblin of little minds in terms of the need for human creativity. With respect to dog training, however, inconsistency is the quickest way to reduce the experience's effectiveness.
Dogs thrive on predictability. In fact, their ability to grasp cause and effect is at the very root of training. Operant conditioning is predicated on the fact that dogs will begin to associate events with consistent outcomes. This notion of consistency's importance must be extended to the overall process of dog training.
A dog is likely to best respond to a system in which regular actions produce regular results. Too often, dog owners fail to be entirely consistent. In the dog's mind, these lapses in regularity convey a sense of randomness to the process and make it difficult for the pet to associate his specific behaviors with specific results-the key to training. Dogs will excel when they are taught that things happen for specific reasons. When surprises occur it undermines the whole of the training process.
A successful trainer will retain consistency and will not deviate from an established course.
Impatience
There can be a great deal of frustration in dog training. Concepts we believe dogs should be able to grasp easily often escape them completely for quite some time.
We live in a world that is so often focused on immediate results. We learn to expect that our actions will be met by prompt, anticipated responses. Dog training runs counter to this societal trend toward speedy, immediate gratification. Training is an extended process that can require a great deal of patience from the trainer.
Impatience results in unpredictability on the part of the owner as they hastily cease a training session or abandon positive reinforcement techniques in hopes of finding a shortcut to desired results. Patience is, indeed, a virtue when one considers the role of the owner in a dog training situation.
A successful trainer will master developing a patient outlook throughout the extended process of dog training.
Treating The Dog As A Subject Instead Of A Partner
Dog training requires two participants: the dog and the owner. Frequently, however, owners tend to perceive the process as being uniquely about them. They fret over their techniques, equipment and strategies without giving real consideration to their training partner, the dog.
When an owner approaches the dog as a simple subject for experimentation, they lose track of what makes the dog unique and denigrate the always-important dog/owner relationship. Training becomes a chore, rather than a joint activity. What might have been a pleasurable chance for interaction becomes an un-enjoyable task.
Dogs are sufficiently intuitive to be attuned to a trainer's attitude and are less receptive to learning when they are treated merely as a subject instead of as a complete being. Owners who fail to see their pet's identity during training are unable to pick up on subtle clues and possible means to improve their techniques.
The successful trainer will treat his dog as a full partner in training, not merely as a subject.
By avoiding these three common pitfalls, a dog owner is more likely to be able to implement a training strategy that produces results. Additionally, the training experience is likely to be enjoyable for both the dog and owner, giving them a tremendous opportunity to build their relationship. Regardless of the exact methodology adopted by the owner, the training process will benefit extraordinarily from avoiding the mistakes of inconsistency, impatience and treating your pet as a subject instead of as a partner.
Tuesday, August 05, 2008
Friday, June 13, 2008
Older Dog Health Problems - Common Health Problems Facing Senior Dogs
Older Dog Health Problems Like all animals, as dogs age they tend to develop health problems unique to older dogs. Many dog owners have a difficult time accepting this fact and think that their lively pooch is not an older dog and will not have health problems. Dogs can, however, show signs of aging as early as seven years old. Older dog health problems generally affect larger breeds earlier than small breeds that tend to show signs of aging around 10 to 12 years of age. The fact is that senior dog health problems will eventually be a concern for every dog owner.
Common Health Problems Facing Older Dogs
All dogs are different and, depending on their size, breed and activity level, will exhibit health problems differently. However, there are common health issues that may manifest in all senior dogs including the following:
Joint and bone problems
An overall reduction in their metabolism Difficulty with their eyes and ears
Liver and kidney dysfunctions
Skin becomes thin and less pliable while the coat becomes mottled and patchy
Problems with teeth and gums
Unlike a little puppy who has an endless supply of energy, an older dog will tend to slow down and take longer to lay down or stand up. Instead of bounding up the stairs your senior dog might take each stair one at a time. Your dog may develop arthritis, an inflammation of the joints causing pain and discomfort, which is generally the cause of this slowing down. There are a host of anti-inflammatory drugs that your veterinarian can suggest to reduce the discomfort caused by arthritis.
In many cases, an older dog will have problems with their eyes as they develop cataracts or even glaucoma. A cataract will become obvious to the owner as the eyes have a cloudy appearance and tend to reflect light. Senior dogs may also develop glaucoma, an increased amount of pressure on the eyes, and can cause more serious problems if left untreated.
The entire circulation system and many of the major organs are taxed in older dogs. The heart, lungs, liver and kidneys all become less efficient and the immune systems can become weak and vulnerable to viruses and bacteria. Serious health problems may develop in your senior dog as some of the symptoms develop gradually. It is your responsibility to maintain your older dog's health and remain informed of the possible senior dog health problems that commonly arise.
Helping Your Older Dog Overcome Health Problems As an aging dog inevitably develops health problems, you can help alleviate many of the symptoms and keep your pet comfortable. The most basic thing you can do is simply pay more attention to your senior dog making sure you're aware of the changes taking place. Brush your dog's coat daily and ask your vet if there are special shampoos to help with her skin and coat. Spend time rubbing your hands on his coat feeling for bumps or lesions. Be patient when your dog needs a little extra time walking up the stairs or jumping up into the car. Make sure you make regular visits to your vet and stay current on vaccinations. Brush your senior dog's teeth regularly and have them professionally cleaned occasionally. Provide regular exercise while also making adjustments needed for your dog as she ages.
As your older dog slows down, you might have to adjust her diet to help compensate for the reduction of energy for both her weight as well as her coat and her circulation system. Not only must the overall calorie intake be reduced, but you can also feed your senior dog specially formulated foods made to fit their particular needs. Try to purchase the most expensive, best quality food you can afford and avoid greasy table scraps.
It's an inevitable fact that dogs ageArticle Submission, but you can make a difference in helping your older dog overcome health problems. Keep in mind that in the last eighty years or so the average lifespan of dogs has increased from 7 years to 12. Expanding your knowledge and paying attention to your dogs health will help ensure your dog lives a long and comfortable life.
Common Health Problems Facing Older Dogs
All dogs are different and, depending on their size, breed and activity level, will exhibit health problems differently. However, there are common health issues that may manifest in all senior dogs including the following:
Joint and bone problems
An overall reduction in their metabolism Difficulty with their eyes and ears
Liver and kidney dysfunctions
Skin becomes thin and less pliable while the coat becomes mottled and patchy
Problems with teeth and gums
Unlike a little puppy who has an endless supply of energy, an older dog will tend to slow down and take longer to lay down or stand up. Instead of bounding up the stairs your senior dog might take each stair one at a time. Your dog may develop arthritis, an inflammation of the joints causing pain and discomfort, which is generally the cause of this slowing down. There are a host of anti-inflammatory drugs that your veterinarian can suggest to reduce the discomfort caused by arthritis.
In many cases, an older dog will have problems with their eyes as they develop cataracts or even glaucoma. A cataract will become obvious to the owner as the eyes have a cloudy appearance and tend to reflect light. Senior dogs may also develop glaucoma, an increased amount of pressure on the eyes, and can cause more serious problems if left untreated.
The entire circulation system and many of the major organs are taxed in older dogs. The heart, lungs, liver and kidneys all become less efficient and the immune systems can become weak and vulnerable to viruses and bacteria. Serious health problems may develop in your senior dog as some of the symptoms develop gradually. It is your responsibility to maintain your older dog's health and remain informed of the possible senior dog health problems that commonly arise.
Helping Your Older Dog Overcome Health Problems As an aging dog inevitably develops health problems, you can help alleviate many of the symptoms and keep your pet comfortable. The most basic thing you can do is simply pay more attention to your senior dog making sure you're aware of the changes taking place. Brush your dog's coat daily and ask your vet if there are special shampoos to help with her skin and coat. Spend time rubbing your hands on his coat feeling for bumps or lesions. Be patient when your dog needs a little extra time walking up the stairs or jumping up into the car. Make sure you make regular visits to your vet and stay current on vaccinations. Brush your senior dog's teeth regularly and have them professionally cleaned occasionally. Provide regular exercise while also making adjustments needed for your dog as she ages.
As your older dog slows down, you might have to adjust her diet to help compensate for the reduction of energy for both her weight as well as her coat and her circulation system. Not only must the overall calorie intake be reduced, but you can also feed your senior dog specially formulated foods made to fit their particular needs. Try to purchase the most expensive, best quality food you can afford and avoid greasy table scraps.
It's an inevitable fact that dogs ageArticle Submission, but you can make a difference in helping your older dog overcome health problems. Keep in mind that in the last eighty years or so the average lifespan of dogs has increased from 7 years to 12. Expanding your knowledge and paying attention to your dogs health will help ensure your dog lives a long and comfortable life.
Saturday, May 31, 2008
Lyme Disease Treatment in Pets
by: Niall Kennedy
Lyme disease can be treated with antibiotics, because the disease is caused by a bacterium that is introduced to your pet through a bite from a tick carrying the disease.
Antibiotics will be taken for a long period of time and some times and may not be very effective if your pet has had the disease for a long period of time. Sometimes, your veterinarian can switch the antibiotics so see if that may cure the disease. But, if your pet does get bitten again, the disease can reoccur.
So, the best treatment for lyme disease is in the prevention. Ticks can be found in many different areas and are just waiting for the next warm body. Keeping your pets out of thick brush and high grass will help them from getting ticks, but there are many products on the market today that can in fact keep ticks off of your pets or kill these pests if your pet already has ticks.
Bathing your pet or grooming your pet can also help in preventing ticks the time to attach to your pet. After, your pet has been outdoors, comb him completely and check his skin. This can be a long process if you dog or cat has long hair. But, it will be well worth the time.
If you do find a tick on your pet and it is moving around then you will be able to remove it very easily. Be sure to kill the tick. If the tick has attached it is very important it remove it properly. You can use tweezers or your fingernails. Grab the tick close to your pet’s skin and pull straight out very firmly. Do not allow any of the contents from the tick on your skin or your pet’s skin. Lyme disease can be transmitted through a cut on the skin. And yes, humans can also contract lyme disease.
Lyme disease can be treated with antibiotics, because the disease is caused by a bacterium that is introduced to your pet through a bite from a tick carrying the disease.
Antibiotics will be taken for a long period of time and some times and may not be very effective if your pet has had the disease for a long period of time. Sometimes, your veterinarian can switch the antibiotics so see if that may cure the disease. But, if your pet does get bitten again, the disease can reoccur.
So, the best treatment for lyme disease is in the prevention. Ticks can be found in many different areas and are just waiting for the next warm body. Keeping your pets out of thick brush and high grass will help them from getting ticks, but there are many products on the market today that can in fact keep ticks off of your pets or kill these pests if your pet already has ticks.
Bathing your pet or grooming your pet can also help in preventing ticks the time to attach to your pet. After, your pet has been outdoors, comb him completely and check his skin. This can be a long process if you dog or cat has long hair. But, it will be well worth the time.
If you do find a tick on your pet and it is moving around then you will be able to remove it very easily. Be sure to kill the tick. If the tick has attached it is very important it remove it properly. You can use tweezers or your fingernails. Grab the tick close to your pet’s skin and pull straight out very firmly. Do not allow any of the contents from the tick on your skin or your pet’s skin. Lyme disease can be transmitted through a cut on the skin. And yes, humans can also contract lyme disease.
Thursday, April 24, 2008
Pet Insurance. Podgy Pets Need A Diet Plan
Pet Insurance. Podgy Pets Need A Diet Plan
by: Michael Challiner
Is your pet overweight? Four out of every ten pets are obese says one of the UK 's largest pet insurers.
Owners are overfeeding their dogs and cats with massive portions and fatty foods as well lots of treats from the table. This had led to a huge increase in the number of pet insurance claims for health problems brought on by obesity.
Petplan has revealed that during the last five years it has seen a 60% increase in obesity related claims amongst the 800,000 pets it covers. As a result there are reports that some pet insurers are looking at cutting payouts if your pet is obese.
Obesity in pets causes many of the same problems it does in humans. An overweight pet is prone to many weight related conditions including: joint, ligament and tendon difficulties, breathing and heart problems and diabetes. Obese cats can also contract skin disorders from not being able to groom themselves thoroughly. The overall impact of obesity on your pets' comfort and longevity could be catastrophic.
But perhaps there's good news. It's easier for you to trim down your pets weight than it is for you to fight the battle of the bulge. After all, your pet can't grab the car keys for a trip to the chippy or phone out for a Chinese. They can't even open the refrigerator door on their own! Your pet eats what you give it - so you're in control. So if it's fat, that's your responsibility. Equally, the remedy is in your hands. Although exercise might not be your bag, your pet will always be up for a walk or a game with a toy on a string, or most popular of all doggy games, fetch the stick.
So how do you know if your pet is overweight? A healthy pet will always have some padding on them - but a little is quite enough! Start off by gently rubbing your hands over their ribs. You should be able to feel their ribs and the skin should move easily back and forth. Then step back and look at your pet from the side - if your pet looks pregnant and it shouldn't be, it's overweight! Your pet should also have a obvious waist at the base of the rib cage, a small tuck-in around the stomach area. Now look at your pet from above - it's equally bad news if you can see a bump out from its middle into an apple shape. Birds too can be obese. Examine polly for rolls of fat or a thicker breast.
Certain breeds and species of pet are more likely to develop weight problems. In dogs, labradors and spaniels are especially liable to fatten up, as do beagles, corgis and retrievers. In cats the less-active breeds such as Persians are far more likely to gain weight than the go-go breeds such as Abyssinians and Siamese. And in birds, Amazon parrots are special contenders to expand into perch potatoes.
Please be aware that crash diets aren't a good idea for pets. Be especially careful with cats who can develop a fatal liver problem if they're forced to lose weight too quickly. Pets don't get obese overnight and it should not be forced to slim down too quickly. Only feed at set meal times and be sure to cut out those tip bits. Then introduce more exercise. Your vet should also advise you on a regime of special diet foods. Be sure to do all of this gradually but please, be committed – your pet's life may depend on it.
by: Michael Challiner
Is your pet overweight? Four out of every ten pets are obese says one of the UK 's largest pet insurers.
Owners are overfeeding their dogs and cats with massive portions and fatty foods as well lots of treats from the table. This had led to a huge increase in the number of pet insurance claims for health problems brought on by obesity.
Petplan has revealed that during the last five years it has seen a 60% increase in obesity related claims amongst the 800,000 pets it covers. As a result there are reports that some pet insurers are looking at cutting payouts if your pet is obese.
Obesity in pets causes many of the same problems it does in humans. An overweight pet is prone to many weight related conditions including: joint, ligament and tendon difficulties, breathing and heart problems and diabetes. Obese cats can also contract skin disorders from not being able to groom themselves thoroughly. The overall impact of obesity on your pets' comfort and longevity could be catastrophic.
But perhaps there's good news. It's easier for you to trim down your pets weight than it is for you to fight the battle of the bulge. After all, your pet can't grab the car keys for a trip to the chippy or phone out for a Chinese. They can't even open the refrigerator door on their own! Your pet eats what you give it - so you're in control. So if it's fat, that's your responsibility. Equally, the remedy is in your hands. Although exercise might not be your bag, your pet will always be up for a walk or a game with a toy on a string, or most popular of all doggy games, fetch the stick.
So how do you know if your pet is overweight? A healthy pet will always have some padding on them - but a little is quite enough! Start off by gently rubbing your hands over their ribs. You should be able to feel their ribs and the skin should move easily back and forth. Then step back and look at your pet from the side - if your pet looks pregnant and it shouldn't be, it's overweight! Your pet should also have a obvious waist at the base of the rib cage, a small tuck-in around the stomach area. Now look at your pet from above - it's equally bad news if you can see a bump out from its middle into an apple shape. Birds too can be obese. Examine polly for rolls of fat or a thicker breast.
Certain breeds and species of pet are more likely to develop weight problems. In dogs, labradors and spaniels are especially liable to fatten up, as do beagles, corgis and retrievers. In cats the less-active breeds such as Persians are far more likely to gain weight than the go-go breeds such as Abyssinians and Siamese. And in birds, Amazon parrots are special contenders to expand into perch potatoes.
Please be aware that crash diets aren't a good idea for pets. Be especially careful with cats who can develop a fatal liver problem if they're forced to lose weight too quickly. Pets don't get obese overnight and it should not be forced to slim down too quickly. Only feed at set meal times and be sure to cut out those tip bits. Then introduce more exercise. Your vet should also advise you on a regime of special diet foods. Be sure to do all of this gradually but please, be committed – your pet's life may depend on it.
Christmas Time
Christmas Time
by David the Dogman
Every year comes the message "A Dog Is Not For Christmas, its for life"
A living puppy should not be thought of in the same category as a Christmas toy. A puppy that makes it first appearance, as a gift under the Christmas tree is more likely to be thought of by children as an object or a toy, rather than a family member.
Whilst walking around the Christmas Bazaars and markets do not be tempted to take a dog home with you. If you see a particular dog that you like then arrange with the charity in question to collect the pet a few days after Christmas when everything has settled down. You can then go to the shelter by appointment to collect your new dog or cat. As a sign of good faith one would expect you to make a deposit donation.
I would urge readers to certainly not consider giving a friend a pet for Christmas. If you are thinking of a new pet then give a thought as to how old you will be in ten years time, and where you might be living. Are you prepared to attend training classes? Young dogs are destructive; can you supervise a young dog for the next year? If you do not have a baby what will you do with the dog when a baby arrives? If you have to return to your homeland due to ill health, what will you do with the dog? Most important can you afford the vets fees?
It is always a good idea to check if your vet is offering an emergency service over the Christmas period and to keep the telephone numbers handy. Vet fees are double for out of hours emergencies. If your dog is going into kennels now is the time to check that your pet has up to date vaccinations. Check you have enough medication for the holiday period.
Christmas is the time that we celebrate and we humans do make a lot of noise and have a lot of strangers around the home. This can be a distressing time for our pet dogs and cats Do try to keep to your routine and please do not forget those essential walks. Our Christmas crackers can be terrifying to a nervous dog and it is worth considering a homeopathic remedy called "Rescue" Five drops on the tongue really calms pets and also humans!
Christmas trees are pretty but watch out your pet might be fascinated with the decorations. It is a good idea to keep the tree off the floor and to keep any electrical wires out of reach from pets. The tree lights should only be on when pets can be supervised.
Many dogs and cats have been known to swallow decorations, cracker ornaments and tinsel threads. Watch out for those fruit bowls, which might have walnuts, peach stones and Brazil nuts and of course as we all know human chocolates are dangerous to our pets and can kill. Choc drops made for dogs are not dangerous they do not contain theobromine.
Christmas is the time that we feast and drink and of course we are apt to over eat but I am afraid that dogs often suffer the worst for overeating. No pets should ever be given any form of alcohol and certainly no bones from the Turkey. Yes I agree that there is no problem giving your pet a Christmas treat but please avoid fatty scrapes and do feed in moderation. Never leave tempting treats lying around the floor and remind the children to stop feeding the family pet with sweets.
by David the Dogman
Every year comes the message "A Dog Is Not For Christmas, its for life"
A living puppy should not be thought of in the same category as a Christmas toy. A puppy that makes it first appearance, as a gift under the Christmas tree is more likely to be thought of by children as an object or a toy, rather than a family member.
Whilst walking around the Christmas Bazaars and markets do not be tempted to take a dog home with you. If you see a particular dog that you like then arrange with the charity in question to collect the pet a few days after Christmas when everything has settled down. You can then go to the shelter by appointment to collect your new dog or cat. As a sign of good faith one would expect you to make a deposit donation.
I would urge readers to certainly not consider giving a friend a pet for Christmas. If you are thinking of a new pet then give a thought as to how old you will be in ten years time, and where you might be living. Are you prepared to attend training classes? Young dogs are destructive; can you supervise a young dog for the next year? If you do not have a baby what will you do with the dog when a baby arrives? If you have to return to your homeland due to ill health, what will you do with the dog? Most important can you afford the vets fees?
It is always a good idea to check if your vet is offering an emergency service over the Christmas period and to keep the telephone numbers handy. Vet fees are double for out of hours emergencies. If your dog is going into kennels now is the time to check that your pet has up to date vaccinations. Check you have enough medication for the holiday period.
Christmas is the time that we celebrate and we humans do make a lot of noise and have a lot of strangers around the home. This can be a distressing time for our pet dogs and cats Do try to keep to your routine and please do not forget those essential walks. Our Christmas crackers can be terrifying to a nervous dog and it is worth considering a homeopathic remedy called "Rescue" Five drops on the tongue really calms pets and also humans!
Christmas trees are pretty but watch out your pet might be fascinated with the decorations. It is a good idea to keep the tree off the floor and to keep any electrical wires out of reach from pets. The tree lights should only be on when pets can be supervised.
Many dogs and cats have been known to swallow decorations, cracker ornaments and tinsel threads. Watch out for those fruit bowls, which might have walnuts, peach stones and Brazil nuts and of course as we all know human chocolates are dangerous to our pets and can kill. Choc drops made for dogs are not dangerous they do not contain theobromine.
Christmas is the time that we feast and drink and of course we are apt to over eat but I am afraid that dogs often suffer the worst for overeating. No pets should ever be given any form of alcohol and certainly no bones from the Turkey. Yes I agree that there is no problem giving your pet a Christmas treat but please avoid fatty scrapes and do feed in moderation. Never leave tempting treats lying around the floor and remind the children to stop feeding the family pet with sweets.
Monday, February 11, 2008
7 Tips to Consider When You Walk a Dog
By: Jeff Schuman
When people go to walk a dog, they don’t consider the various obstacles that may stop them from having a pleasant walk. There are several things that can ruin a walk, but if you plan ahead of time and consider these tips it will be relaxing to walk a dog.
Tip 1: Training dog to walk on a leash
It is important that the when you walk a dog, they have been trained or are comfortable walking on a leash. Training dogs to walk on a leash is very simple because most are eager to just get outside and explore.
Tip 2: How many walks a day?
If you walk a dog a couple times a day for a half hour, they will get the energy out of them and go to the bathroom. You can turn it into a one hour ordeal, but splitting it up into morning and afternoon or early night walks allows them to get their energy out at different times of the day rather than all at once.
Tip 3: Social skills for the dog
When you walk a dog you have to remember that a walk is a social experience for them in a sense. Depending on the dog’s obedience, allow them to greet other people and other dogs to build relationships. This will help their self-esteem and better their mood.
Tip 4: Restrict the dog
As mentioned in the previous tip, it is important to let them greet others and explore. However, it is important to restrict the dog to a point and maintain some kind of authority over it. You don’t want the dog to be wandering onto other people’s yards or running wild, so that is why training dogs to walk on a leash is important.
Tip 5: Cleaning poop
To clean up after your dog, it is important to remember to bring a plastic bag or some kind of pooper-scooper.
Tip 6: Vary the walks
As mentioned earlier, when you walk a dog it is the highlight of their day. By varying the route you take, this allows the dog to venture new surroundings and keeps them interested to explore new habitats.
Tip 7: Practice obedience skills
Walking a dog is fun for them, but you can also use it as a time to practice some of their obedience skills. Reviewing the basic skills allows them to enjoy themselves and learn at the same time. You want to be careful NOT to turn it into strictly an obedience time for them though, because it is there most enjoyable time of the day.
When people go to walk a dog, they don’t consider the various obstacles that may stop them from having a pleasant walk. There are several things that can ruin a walk, but if you plan ahead of time and consider these tips it will be relaxing to walk a dog.
Tip 1: Training dog to walk on a leash
It is important that the when you walk a dog, they have been trained or are comfortable walking on a leash. Training dogs to walk on a leash is very simple because most are eager to just get outside and explore.
Tip 2: How many walks a day?
If you walk a dog a couple times a day for a half hour, they will get the energy out of them and go to the bathroom. You can turn it into a one hour ordeal, but splitting it up into morning and afternoon or early night walks allows them to get their energy out at different times of the day rather than all at once.
Tip 3: Social skills for the dog
When you walk a dog you have to remember that a walk is a social experience for them in a sense. Depending on the dog’s obedience, allow them to greet other people and other dogs to build relationships. This will help their self-esteem and better their mood.
Tip 4: Restrict the dog
As mentioned in the previous tip, it is important to let them greet others and explore. However, it is important to restrict the dog to a point and maintain some kind of authority over it. You don’t want the dog to be wandering onto other people’s yards or running wild, so that is why training dogs to walk on a leash is important.
Tip 5: Cleaning poop
To clean up after your dog, it is important to remember to bring a plastic bag or some kind of pooper-scooper.
Tip 6: Vary the walks
As mentioned earlier, when you walk a dog it is the highlight of their day. By varying the route you take, this allows the dog to venture new surroundings and keeps them interested to explore new habitats.
Tip 7: Practice obedience skills
Walking a dog is fun for them, but you can also use it as a time to practice some of their obedience skills. Reviewing the basic skills allows them to enjoy themselves and learn at the same time. You want to be careful NOT to turn it into strictly an obedience time for them though, because it is there most enjoyable time of the day.
Friday, January 18, 2008
Selling Your House - $100,000 Pets
by: Raynor James
Is your pet worth $100,000? It may be if you don’t make accommodations for it when selling your home.
A Hundred Thousand Dollar Pet?
A house I’d seen with a potential buyer in an attractive neighborhood built around two lakes sold for $100,000 less than was typical for the neighborhood. Do you know what caused it to sell for that much less? A pet. Actually, two pets.
I can hear you thinking, “How can that be? Surely she doesn’t know what she’s talking about this time. How could two pets reduce the sales price of a home by $100,000? Is that even possible?” I understand your skepticism, but it’s true. Let me tell you how I know.
When I made the appointment for the potential buyer to look at the house, I wasn’t told about the presence of pets. We arrived at the house, knocked on the door, and when no one answered our knock, I got out my electronic key to open the box containing a key for brokers to use. While I was doing this, we began to hear some loud barking from large dog or dogs inside the house. The buyer said she did not want to go into the house with “dogs on the loose.” I have to admit I wasn’t thrilled with the idea either, so we went on to the next house she was considering.
She asked me if we could see that house the next day sans pets. I called and made arrangements.
The next day we looked at a two story, 5 bedroom, house with a fully finished, walkout basement that supposedly didn’t have pets. It was a nice house, but the whole house smelled strongly of pet odors. The furniture in the basement was shredded – truly not too strong a word to use. I’ve never seen furniture in worse shape. The front of the house was nicely landscaped. The back of the house was a disaster. The door frames and exterior doors were scratched and gnawed. The lawn had beaten paths and patches. There wasn’t a flower or a shrub to be seen. The “buyer” couldn’t get away fast enough.
I later found out the owner of the house had a German Shepherd. The second “dog” was a wolf and shepherd mix. The house stayed on the market longer than typical, the price was reduced several times and the final sales price was $100,000 below what was typical for the neighborhood. Now you tell me, what cost that seller $100,000?
Don’t misunderstand, I know pets are wonderful. Over time my husband and I have enjoyed living with a German Shepherd, two Siamese cats, assorted adopted stray cats, fancy guppies, gold fish, koi, and various sorts of wounded critters our two sons brought home.
Pets enrich your life. They don’t enrich the sales price of your home. Take the right steps though, and they won’t rob you of any of your equity.
Is your pet worth $100,000? It may be if you don’t make accommodations for it when selling your home.
A Hundred Thousand Dollar Pet?
A house I’d seen with a potential buyer in an attractive neighborhood built around two lakes sold for $100,000 less than was typical for the neighborhood. Do you know what caused it to sell for that much less? A pet. Actually, two pets.
I can hear you thinking, “How can that be? Surely she doesn’t know what she’s talking about this time. How could two pets reduce the sales price of a home by $100,000? Is that even possible?” I understand your skepticism, but it’s true. Let me tell you how I know.
When I made the appointment for the potential buyer to look at the house, I wasn’t told about the presence of pets. We arrived at the house, knocked on the door, and when no one answered our knock, I got out my electronic key to open the box containing a key for brokers to use. While I was doing this, we began to hear some loud barking from large dog or dogs inside the house. The buyer said she did not want to go into the house with “dogs on the loose.” I have to admit I wasn’t thrilled with the idea either, so we went on to the next house she was considering.
She asked me if we could see that house the next day sans pets. I called and made arrangements.
The next day we looked at a two story, 5 bedroom, house with a fully finished, walkout basement that supposedly didn’t have pets. It was a nice house, but the whole house smelled strongly of pet odors. The furniture in the basement was shredded – truly not too strong a word to use. I’ve never seen furniture in worse shape. The front of the house was nicely landscaped. The back of the house was a disaster. The door frames and exterior doors were scratched and gnawed. The lawn had beaten paths and patches. There wasn’t a flower or a shrub to be seen. The “buyer” couldn’t get away fast enough.
I later found out the owner of the house had a German Shepherd. The second “dog” was a wolf and shepherd mix. The house stayed on the market longer than typical, the price was reduced several times and the final sales price was $100,000 below what was typical for the neighborhood. Now you tell me, what cost that seller $100,000?
Don’t misunderstand, I know pets are wonderful. Over time my husband and I have enjoyed living with a German Shepherd, two Siamese cats, assorted adopted stray cats, fancy guppies, gold fish, koi, and various sorts of wounded critters our two sons brought home.
Pets enrich your life. They don’t enrich the sales price of your home. Take the right steps though, and they won’t rob you of any of your equity.
Sunday, December 30, 2007
Choosing The Best Pets For Kids
by: Larry Chamberlain
Just what do you say to your kids when they ask for a pet? It is perfectly true that growing up with a family pet can teach children responsibility and to develop their social skills. Also cultivating good feelings towards pet animals helps kids to develop a sense of self esteem and help them to establish trusting relationships with other human beings. But before you give in to your kid's demands for a pony, rabbit, salamander, kitten, boxer, python, or macaw, there is plenty for you to consider.
The first thing to keep in mind is that no matter how much your kid promises that she or he will be the one to take care of the pet, some if not all of that responsibility will fall upon you. That is an inevitable, inescapable fact. No matter how good the child's intention is, there will be some, and perhaps many, occasions when other things take priority in their minds and the pet is unintentionally neglected. That is, the pet would be neglected if you were not there to step in, because somebody has to.
Secondly a child may sincerely believe that the thing that they most want in the world is a cute little black and white kitten, just like their best friend of the moment has. The child has really convinced themselves that they want a kitten, and a kitten will hold their interest for ever and ever. And so it would, until their new best friend of next week gets a pet lizard which is just sooo cool. So you will want to make absolutely sure that the pet that your child is demanding will be a long term passion, and not just a fleeting interest.
It will be a good idea to discuss the idea with the whole family. How do they feel about yapping dogs, hair shedding Persian cats, squawking parrots? If one of your children is allowed their very own pet hamster, will all of the child's siblings demand a pet of their own too? Does anybody in the family suffer with an allergy that would make sharing their home with a certain animal intolerable?
Is the type of animal your child is asking for suitable for your family, and your family's life style? A dog that needs two trips to the park every single day may not be suitable for a family who is away from the house all day. And no matter how much the child promises that they will walk the dog, there will be times that they will fail to do so, (and times that you may not want them to, after dark for example). Choosing pets for kids is not easy, often the type of pet that they plead for would not be the best match for their age and experience with animals.
You should also consider cost. Not only the cost of acquiring a pet, but more importantly the cost of taking care of it. All animals involve a financial commitment, food, vet bills, pet care products etc. You don't want to acquire a pet for your kid only to find that you don't have the financial means to keep it. Small pets for kids often have less costs involved in looking after them than larger pets do.
Just what do you say to your kids when they ask for a pet? It is perfectly true that growing up with a family pet can teach children responsibility and to develop their social skills. Also cultivating good feelings towards pet animals helps kids to develop a sense of self esteem and help them to establish trusting relationships with other human beings. But before you give in to your kid's demands for a pony, rabbit, salamander, kitten, boxer, python, or macaw, there is plenty for you to consider.
The first thing to keep in mind is that no matter how much your kid promises that she or he will be the one to take care of the pet, some if not all of that responsibility will fall upon you. That is an inevitable, inescapable fact. No matter how good the child's intention is, there will be some, and perhaps many, occasions when other things take priority in their minds and the pet is unintentionally neglected. That is, the pet would be neglected if you were not there to step in, because somebody has to.
Secondly a child may sincerely believe that the thing that they most want in the world is a cute little black and white kitten, just like their best friend of the moment has. The child has really convinced themselves that they want a kitten, and a kitten will hold their interest for ever and ever. And so it would, until their new best friend of next week gets a pet lizard which is just sooo cool. So you will want to make absolutely sure that the pet that your child is demanding will be a long term passion, and not just a fleeting interest.
It will be a good idea to discuss the idea with the whole family. How do they feel about yapping dogs, hair shedding Persian cats, squawking parrots? If one of your children is allowed their very own pet hamster, will all of the child's siblings demand a pet of their own too? Does anybody in the family suffer with an allergy that would make sharing their home with a certain animal intolerable?
Is the type of animal your child is asking for suitable for your family, and your family's life style? A dog that needs two trips to the park every single day may not be suitable for a family who is away from the house all day. And no matter how much the child promises that they will walk the dog, there will be times that they will fail to do so, (and times that you may not want them to, after dark for example). Choosing pets for kids is not easy, often the type of pet that they plead for would not be the best match for their age and experience with animals.
You should also consider cost. Not only the cost of acquiring a pet, but more importantly the cost of taking care of it. All animals involve a financial commitment, food, vet bills, pet care products etc. You don't want to acquire a pet for your kid only to find that you don't have the financial means to keep it. Small pets for kids often have less costs involved in looking after them than larger pets do.
Friday, November 30, 2007
Dogs and Chocolates
by David the Dogman
Chocolate made for human consumption can cause death in dogs. Dogs are sensitive to a class of chemicals called methylxanthines. Caffeine and theobtomine are members of that family. Dogs simply cannot metabolise and excrete methylxanthines as efficiently as humans. The half life of those compounds in the human body is in the order of 2 to 3 hours, in the dog it is more like 18 hours.
In a dog the compounds are taken up by the liver and transmitted via the bile into the intestine. They are then converted back into the original methylxanthines for another circuit through the animal. This repeats itself a number of times and instead of getting rid of the substances the dog keeps repoisoning itself-
There are many formulations of chocolate with varying amounts of caffeine and theobromine. The lethal dose of sweet milk chocolate for a dog is 2 oz per kilogram of bodyweight. For a 5 kilogram dog this would be about 280 grams. A lethal dose of milk chocolate for a 25 kilogram would be about 1.4 kilograms.
Dark chocolate is at least 10 times as lethal. A 25 kilograms dog could die from the methylxanthines in 5 ounces.
Symptoms include vomiting, hyperactivity, restlessness, hypersensitivity to touch ( a dog will jump when touched very rapid heartbeat and rapid breathing rate. A loss of control of leg muscles, muscle tremor seizures, general weakness, coma and finally death follow.
In my humble opinion it would be a tragic mistake to encourage a dog to develop a taste for chocolate. A small dog left alone in a house with a box of chocolates might well follow his nose to the goodies and commit suicide by poisoning.
Chocolate made for human consumption can cause death in dogs. Dogs are sensitive to a class of chemicals called methylxanthines. Caffeine and theobtomine are members of that family. Dogs simply cannot metabolise and excrete methylxanthines as efficiently as humans. The half life of those compounds in the human body is in the order of 2 to 3 hours, in the dog it is more like 18 hours.
In a dog the compounds are taken up by the liver and transmitted via the bile into the intestine. They are then converted back into the original methylxanthines for another circuit through the animal. This repeats itself a number of times and instead of getting rid of the substances the dog keeps repoisoning itself-
There are many formulations of chocolate with varying amounts of caffeine and theobromine. The lethal dose of sweet milk chocolate for a dog is 2 oz per kilogram of bodyweight. For a 5 kilogram dog this would be about 280 grams. A lethal dose of milk chocolate for a 25 kilogram would be about 1.4 kilograms.
Dark chocolate is at least 10 times as lethal. A 25 kilograms dog could die from the methylxanthines in 5 ounces.
Symptoms include vomiting, hyperactivity, restlessness, hypersensitivity to touch ( a dog will jump when touched very rapid heartbeat and rapid breathing rate. A loss of control of leg muscles, muscle tremor seizures, general weakness, coma and finally death follow.
In my humble opinion it would be a tragic mistake to encourage a dog to develop a taste for chocolate. A small dog left alone in a house with a box of chocolates might well follow his nose to the goodies and commit suicide by poisoning.
Jumping Up 2
by David the Dogman
Teach your dog to sit whenever you ask him to. Sit at the kerb when you cross the road. Sit in front of you. Then when he runs at you, or anyone else, if told sit he will sit.
BUT it has to be practised, and used constantly, not just now and then.
When he sits as you have asked reward him with a titbit...a very tiny one.
Sit while his food is being prepared.
Lying down is another skill that is useful. Lie down, I am busy. Lie down, I want to watch TV. Lie down, while we eat.
If you say DOWN when he jumps up, the word does not mean lie down on the ground and keep still...it means stand on four legs and dont jump up. So you need to use another word, like LIE, or FLAT, for him...
Also QUIET is often the noisiest word in the English language for dog owners ...and all it does is make him think you are helping him bark. So WHISPER "quiet."
When he is excited and jumps at you, turn round and walk away. Pretend you cant see him. Don't speak or shout at him as that is still acknowledging him and he wants your attention. Only speak when he has settled down...it will take time at first but he ought to learn that jumping up is useless as nothing nice happens when he does it...or nasty for that matter. Nothing at all happens.
If he asks to be petted, DON'T. Keep your hands away. Don't sit and stroke him absent mindedly as that gives him too much attention and makes him feel much more important than you are. When he goes away from you, then you can call him and YOU pet him, not because he has forced you to, but because you want to. I have petting times...when I call my dog and make a fuss of her...not too much or she will over excite.
If he asks to play, dont play. Ignore him. Then a few minutes later, IF it is convenient, you call him and start to play.
Pack leaders eat first, and you are the pack leader...he isn't...so he has to learn that...but just eating before him will show him you are boss.
Pack leaders go through doors first...so he must not rush through in front of you.
His change of diet ought to help, but it wont happen overnight...it will take about six weeks, as he will still have the elements of the old food in his system. Many foods on the market have the same effect as those that excite hyperactive children. I had help with this from someone who works with them in the NHS. One Smartie can cause a problem if red is what triggers a child. The same with the dogs. Can be colouring, preservatives or content.
Teach your dog to sit whenever you ask him to. Sit at the kerb when you cross the road. Sit in front of you. Then when he runs at you, or anyone else, if told sit he will sit.
BUT it has to be practised, and used constantly, not just now and then.
When he sits as you have asked reward him with a titbit...a very tiny one.
Sit while his food is being prepared.
Lying down is another skill that is useful. Lie down, I am busy. Lie down, I want to watch TV. Lie down, while we eat.
If you say DOWN when he jumps up, the word does not mean lie down on the ground and keep still...it means stand on four legs and dont jump up. So you need to use another word, like LIE, or FLAT, for him...
Also QUIET is often the noisiest word in the English language for dog owners ...and all it does is make him think you are helping him bark. So WHISPER "quiet."
When he is excited and jumps at you, turn round and walk away. Pretend you cant see him. Don't speak or shout at him as that is still acknowledging him and he wants your attention. Only speak when he has settled down...it will take time at first but he ought to learn that jumping up is useless as nothing nice happens when he does it...or nasty for that matter. Nothing at all happens.
If he asks to be petted, DON'T. Keep your hands away. Don't sit and stroke him absent mindedly as that gives him too much attention and makes him feel much more important than you are. When he goes away from you, then you can call him and YOU pet him, not because he has forced you to, but because you want to. I have petting times...when I call my dog and make a fuss of her...not too much or she will over excite.
If he asks to play, dont play. Ignore him. Then a few minutes later, IF it is convenient, you call him and start to play.
Pack leaders eat first, and you are the pack leader...he isn't...so he has to learn that...but just eating before him will show him you are boss.
Pack leaders go through doors first...so he must not rush through in front of you.
His change of diet ought to help, but it wont happen overnight...it will take about six weeks, as he will still have the elements of the old food in his system. Many foods on the market have the same effect as those that excite hyperactive children. I had help with this from someone who works with them in the NHS. One Smartie can cause a problem if red is what triggers a child. The same with the dogs. Can be colouring, preservatives or content.
Friday, October 19, 2007
Bloat in dogs
by:Larry Glickman
Several times a week I receive a phone call from someone whose dog has died of bloat. Usually my role is to provide a sympathetic ear and assure the callers that there was nothing they could have changed to prevent the incident. Our current knowledge of bloat does not allow us to identify specific events that trigger an acute episode in susceptible dogs, although some form of "stress" was probably involved. One of our long-term research objectives is to better define what constitutes stress for dogs and to measure their physiological response to it. However, the primary goal of the research is to determine why some dogs are more susceptible to bloat than others, i.e., what are the risk factors for bloat. This has led to studies of the physical conformation of dogs, their diet, vaccination histories, and even to new ways to evaluate a dog's temperament and personality.
The overall bloat fatality rate approaches 30% for dogs with a dilated, rotated stomach. Approximately half of the dogs that die with a rotated stomach will do so before veterinary medical or surgical treatment is obtained. Dogs may be found dead or die on the way to the hospital, or may be euthanized by the veterinarian because of their poor prognosis or the owner's financial considerations. In contrast, dogs properly treated have [greater than] 80% probability of surviving a bloat episode and then leading a normal life. Veterinarians over the past 2 decades have reduced dramatically the postoperative fatality rate from gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV) from [greater than]50% to [less than]20% by using improved therapy for shock, safer anesthetic agents, and better surgical techniques.
Too often, however, owners of dogs that died of bloat tell me that they had recognized that the dog had a serious problem and rushed the dog to a veterinarian, only to be told that it was probably only a "belly ache," or that the dog's stomach was dilated, but not rotated. Sometimes the veterinarian recognized dilatation, but not a rotation (volvulus, torsion), passed a stomach tube to relieve the pressure, and sent the dog home. Or the dog was diagnosed as having dilatation and rotation, and a stomach tube was passed to relieve the pressure, but surgery (gastropexy) to permanently correct the rotation was delayed, either because the dog was thought to be too ill to withstand the surgery, or the veterinarian was not adequately equipped or prepared at the time to perform the operation. The latter may occur if the veterinarian is in the midst of busy office hours or if -- especially at night -- there is insufficient technical help available to properly perform the surgery, which requires careful administration of anesthesia, appropriate fluid therapy, and close monitoring of the dog's vital signs. Numerous clinical reports from Europe and the United States show that gastropexy to prevent gastric rotation should be performed as soon as possible following stomach decompression on all dogs with gastric dilatation, whether or not the stomach is thought to be rotated at the time. The recurrence rate of gastric volvulus in dogs treated for bloat conservatively, i.e., without surgery, approaches 100%, whereas the recurrence rate following gastropexy is [less than]5%. The stomach of a dog that has had a gastropexy can still dilate, but it is unlikely to rotate, so if dilatation does occur after gastropexy, it can probably be treated conservatively.
What does all this mean to you? If your dog suddenly develops a distended abdomen, appears uncomfortable, and gets progressively worse, rush the dog to a veterinarian, preferably one equipped to do emergency surgery. Gastric distention is a life-threatening condition, even if the stomach has not rotated. Immediate decompression is required to relieve pressure on blood vessels and to restore circulation to the heart, because shock can occur within minutes of the first clinical signs. Fluid therapy is indicated to treat shock, and drugs may be needed if the heart rhythm is irregular. This should be followed as soon as possible by surgery to reposition and immobilize (gastropexy) the stomach before it is irreversibly damaged. The best indicators of how well the dog will do postoperatively are its physical condition (state of shock) prior to surgery and the appearance of the stomach during surgery (since dead or dying stomach tissue implies a very poor prognosis). Intensive monitoring is usually required for several days postoperatively in case complications occur.
If you suspect your dog has bloat, but the veterinarian dismisses it as a minor problem, inquire about radiographs to rule out GDV. If dilatation with or without volvulus is diagnosed and the stomach is decompressed, either by passing a stomach tube or by piercing the stomach with a large needle (trochar) passed through the body wall, the dog should be considered as a candidate for immediate surgery, unless its condition is too unstable to tolerate anesthesia. If the veterinarian recommends that surgery be delayed for any other reason, seek a second opinion immediately. Delay in surgery will increase the chance of the stomach rotating if it hasn't already, or will decrease the chance of the dog surviving if rotation has occurred.
Following is an excerpt of a letter that illustrates some of these points. "I noticed Kelly [an Irish Setter] attempting to vomit with nothing coming up. Grass? Chicken bone? I watched her and we continued to walk. She was happy and greeted people, wagging her tail, ... and had fun. We went home and Kelly went upstairs where she attempted to vomit several times. I immediately called my vet. Kelly and I arrived at the veterinarian's office within five minutes of the phone call. I told the veterinarian that Kelly had vomited two or three times with nothing coming up. I said that she looked a little broad around the ribs. The veterinarian did a physical examination and concluded that Kelly's problem was just a "stomach ache." ... I was directed to give her Pepto Bismol®. I took Kelly home and she lay down on the bed. About 45 minutes later she went out to the back yard. When I went out 10 minutes later, I found her bloated up. I grabbed her, took her back to the veterinary hospital, but she died on the operating table." (Comment: There is no guarantee that if radiographs had been taken during the first veterinary visit, Kelly's outcome would have been different. However, radiographs might have confirmed the presence of gastric dilatation or volvulus, and thus the need for immediate gastric decompression and surgery.) Be prepared -- Teamwork between you and your veterinarian is your dog's best hope when it comes to bloat.
For more information on the early signs of bloat, talk with your veterinarian. Ask what treatment he/she recommends for bloat, and if their hospital has a 24-hour emergency service.
Several times a week I receive a phone call from someone whose dog has died of bloat. Usually my role is to provide a sympathetic ear and assure the callers that there was nothing they could have changed to prevent the incident. Our current knowledge of bloat does not allow us to identify specific events that trigger an acute episode in susceptible dogs, although some form of "stress" was probably involved. One of our long-term research objectives is to better define what constitutes stress for dogs and to measure their physiological response to it. However, the primary goal of the research is to determine why some dogs are more susceptible to bloat than others, i.e., what are the risk factors for bloat. This has led to studies of the physical conformation of dogs, their diet, vaccination histories, and even to new ways to evaluate a dog's temperament and personality.
The overall bloat fatality rate approaches 30% for dogs with a dilated, rotated stomach. Approximately half of the dogs that die with a rotated stomach will do so before veterinary medical or surgical treatment is obtained. Dogs may be found dead or die on the way to the hospital, or may be euthanized by the veterinarian because of their poor prognosis or the owner's financial considerations. In contrast, dogs properly treated have [greater than] 80% probability of surviving a bloat episode and then leading a normal life. Veterinarians over the past 2 decades have reduced dramatically the postoperative fatality rate from gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV) from [greater than]50% to [less than]20% by using improved therapy for shock, safer anesthetic agents, and better surgical techniques.
Too often, however, owners of dogs that died of bloat tell me that they had recognized that the dog had a serious problem and rushed the dog to a veterinarian, only to be told that it was probably only a "belly ache," or that the dog's stomach was dilated, but not rotated. Sometimes the veterinarian recognized dilatation, but not a rotation (volvulus, torsion), passed a stomach tube to relieve the pressure, and sent the dog home. Or the dog was diagnosed as having dilatation and rotation, and a stomach tube was passed to relieve the pressure, but surgery (gastropexy) to permanently correct the rotation was delayed, either because the dog was thought to be too ill to withstand the surgery, or the veterinarian was not adequately equipped or prepared at the time to perform the operation. The latter may occur if the veterinarian is in the midst of busy office hours or if -- especially at night -- there is insufficient technical help available to properly perform the surgery, which requires careful administration of anesthesia, appropriate fluid therapy, and close monitoring of the dog's vital signs. Numerous clinical reports from Europe and the United States show that gastropexy to prevent gastric rotation should be performed as soon as possible following stomach decompression on all dogs with gastric dilatation, whether or not the stomach is thought to be rotated at the time. The recurrence rate of gastric volvulus in dogs treated for bloat conservatively, i.e., without surgery, approaches 100%, whereas the recurrence rate following gastropexy is [less than]5%. The stomach of a dog that has had a gastropexy can still dilate, but it is unlikely to rotate, so if dilatation does occur after gastropexy, it can probably be treated conservatively.
What does all this mean to you? If your dog suddenly develops a distended abdomen, appears uncomfortable, and gets progressively worse, rush the dog to a veterinarian, preferably one equipped to do emergency surgery. Gastric distention is a life-threatening condition, even if the stomach has not rotated. Immediate decompression is required to relieve pressure on blood vessels and to restore circulation to the heart, because shock can occur within minutes of the first clinical signs. Fluid therapy is indicated to treat shock, and drugs may be needed if the heart rhythm is irregular. This should be followed as soon as possible by surgery to reposition and immobilize (gastropexy) the stomach before it is irreversibly damaged. The best indicators of how well the dog will do postoperatively are its physical condition (state of shock) prior to surgery and the appearance of the stomach during surgery (since dead or dying stomach tissue implies a very poor prognosis). Intensive monitoring is usually required for several days postoperatively in case complications occur.
If you suspect your dog has bloat, but the veterinarian dismisses it as a minor problem, inquire about radiographs to rule out GDV. If dilatation with or without volvulus is diagnosed and the stomach is decompressed, either by passing a stomach tube or by piercing the stomach with a large needle (trochar) passed through the body wall, the dog should be considered as a candidate for immediate surgery, unless its condition is too unstable to tolerate anesthesia. If the veterinarian recommends that surgery be delayed for any other reason, seek a second opinion immediately. Delay in surgery will increase the chance of the stomach rotating if it hasn't already, or will decrease the chance of the dog surviving if rotation has occurred.
Following is an excerpt of a letter that illustrates some of these points. "I noticed Kelly [an Irish Setter] attempting to vomit with nothing coming up. Grass? Chicken bone? I watched her and we continued to walk. She was happy and greeted people, wagging her tail, ... and had fun. We went home and Kelly went upstairs where she attempted to vomit several times. I immediately called my vet. Kelly and I arrived at the veterinarian's office within five minutes of the phone call. I told the veterinarian that Kelly had vomited two or three times with nothing coming up. I said that she looked a little broad around the ribs. The veterinarian did a physical examination and concluded that Kelly's problem was just a "stomach ache." ... I was directed to give her Pepto Bismol®. I took Kelly home and she lay down on the bed. About 45 minutes later she went out to the back yard. When I went out 10 minutes later, I found her bloated up. I grabbed her, took her back to the veterinary hospital, but she died on the operating table." (Comment: There is no guarantee that if radiographs had been taken during the first veterinary visit, Kelly's outcome would have been different. However, radiographs might have confirmed the presence of gastric dilatation or volvulus, and thus the need for immediate gastric decompression and surgery.) Be prepared -- Teamwork between you and your veterinarian is your dog's best hope when it comes to bloat.
For more information on the early signs of bloat, talk with your veterinarian. Ask what treatment he/she recommends for bloat, and if their hospital has a 24-hour emergency service.
Thursday, October 04, 2007
Protecting The Smallest Member Of Your Family: A Step-By-Step
by:Burke Jones
Let’s face it – Fido and Fluffy are an important part of your
family. Do you want to have to assign a dollar value to them if
they become sick or injured?
That may well be the case if you don’t have pet health insurance.
Rising veterinary costs mean that pet owners can pay hundreds –
and even thousands – of dollars for their pets’ health problems.
As the bills stack up, uninsured pet owners must determine how
much they are willing to spend on their animal friend. It can be
a heartbreaking decision to make.
Much like insurance for health, cars and homes, pet insurance
helps people put a little money away now to avoid a major payout
later. Coverage and cost vary, so it’s important to thoroughly
research the options if you decide to insure your pet.
Step one: Determine if Pet Insurance is Right for You
When people decide to get a pet, they often don’t consider how
they will deal with the inevitable unexpected illnesses or
accidents. Keeping a pet indoors by no means eliminates all the
hazards. They can still swallow foreign objects, ingest a poison
or injure themselves. As well, living indoors does not make a pet
immune to disease and infection – particularly those that are
common to their breed. Pets with access to the outdoors have even
more opportunities to pick up a disease or get hurt.
Don’t have a dog or cat? Insurance companies are starting to
offer plans that meet the needs of a variety of pet owners. Some
now offer coverage for birds and exotic animals.
Not all owners are good candidates for pet insurance, however.
Pet insurance is ideal for owners who deeply love their pets and
are willing to spend a significant amount of money to keep them
healthy and extend their life. They buy their cherished
companions the best food and care they can afford, sometimes even
putting their pets’ needs before their own. For this type of
owner, pet insurance can be a smart investment that can prevent
considerable costs and bring peace of mind.
Pet insurance is not a good investment for owners who don’t have
a strong emotional tie to their pet. Owners who would rather have
their pets euthanized than spend money on vet bills are not good
candidates for pet insurance.
Step two: Decide What Type of Coverage You Want
Most pet owners will weigh two main considerations when shopping
for pet insurance: budget and coverage. Peace of mind can also be
an important factor, but far more difficult to quantify.
Pet health insurance is still relatively new in the United States
and Canada, so the options available are fewer than for other
forms of insurance. That said, North American pet owners can
choose from a variety of coverage choices, ranging from
injury/accident-only to all-inclusive.
As with all insurance products, the cost of pet insurance
increases as the coverage improves. As a pet owner, you must
decide what is the right balance between affordability and the
care you want for your pet.
- Coverage
When choosing pet insurance coverage, first consider what kind of
insurance customer you are. Do you prefer all-inclusive coverage
that pays for everything from routine checkups and vaccinations
to accidents and chronic illnesses, or are you comfortable with a
lesser degree of coverage that just kicks in during emergencies?
Perhaps you prefer a flexible plan that offers discounts on a
wide range of services, from veterinary care to training. This
decision will lay the groundwork for your final choice.
Some issues to consider:
Make sure to check for coverage of pre-existing conditions as
well as breed-specific genetic ailments, such as hip dysplasia
for large dogs. Some plans refuse to cover these conditions.
Some plans place limits on annual, per-incident, per-illness or
lifetime costs.
How old is your pet? Coverage usually starts at eight weeks, but
some plans won’t cover pets over a certain age (usually between
six and 10 years old, depending on the breed, type of animal and
other factors).
- Cost
Payment options for pet insurance include flat fees or
deductibles and/or co-payments. Not surprisingly, plans with
lower monthly premiums come with higher deductibles and/or larger
co-payments.
Some issues to consider:
Insurance premiums are affected by the age, health and breed of
your pet, as well as the type of animal.
Some plans offers discounts for multiple pets.
Plans generally require customers to pay the vet bill first and
then submit receipts for reimbursement.
Find out if the insurance premiums will increase as your pet
ages.
Depending on the plan you choose, the monthly premiums can range
from less than $10 to about $40.
Step three: Choose an Insurer
You’ve determined what you can afford to spend and the amount of
pet insurance coverage you want.
Before selecting an insurer, here are some final considerations:
Make a list of your questions and priorities in advance. Make
sure to answer or check off each item when reviewing plan
options.
Research the insurer thoroughly. Review its website and sales
materials, read its testimonials, talk to other pet owners and
look for on-line reviews. How long has the company been in
business? Are its customers satisfied? Make sure you feel
comfortable about everything you hear or read.
Compare the plan’s benefit schedule with your vet’s fees to
determine to what degree the plan will cover the actual treatment
costs.
Find out how quickly the insurance company reimburses customers’
claim payments and if it has claim deadlines.
Read the fine print. Make sure you completely understand the
plan’s benefits and, more importantly, the limitations. If
something isn’t clear, ask – and get the answer in writing.
Otherwise, you might find you don’t have the coverage you need if
an accident occurs.
Start a file for your pet. Use it for all receipts and insurance
paperwork so you can keep on top of your claims and make sure you
are maximizing your insurance investment.
Your responsibility as a pet owner doesn't end with food, shelter
and affection. Pet health insurance can give the smallest member
of your family a longer and healthier life – and provide you with
more time to enjoy the unconditional love it so willingly offers
to you.
Let’s face it – Fido and Fluffy are an important part of your
family. Do you want to have to assign a dollar value to them if
they become sick or injured?
That may well be the case if you don’t have pet health insurance.
Rising veterinary costs mean that pet owners can pay hundreds –
and even thousands – of dollars for their pets’ health problems.
As the bills stack up, uninsured pet owners must determine how
much they are willing to spend on their animal friend. It can be
a heartbreaking decision to make.
Much like insurance for health, cars and homes, pet insurance
helps people put a little money away now to avoid a major payout
later. Coverage and cost vary, so it’s important to thoroughly
research the options if you decide to insure your pet.
Step one: Determine if Pet Insurance is Right for You
When people decide to get a pet, they often don’t consider how
they will deal with the inevitable unexpected illnesses or
accidents. Keeping a pet indoors by no means eliminates all the
hazards. They can still swallow foreign objects, ingest a poison
or injure themselves. As well, living indoors does not make a pet
immune to disease and infection – particularly those that are
common to their breed. Pets with access to the outdoors have even
more opportunities to pick up a disease or get hurt.
Don’t have a dog or cat? Insurance companies are starting to
offer plans that meet the needs of a variety of pet owners. Some
now offer coverage for birds and exotic animals.
Not all owners are good candidates for pet insurance, however.
Pet insurance is ideal for owners who deeply love their pets and
are willing to spend a significant amount of money to keep them
healthy and extend their life. They buy their cherished
companions the best food and care they can afford, sometimes even
putting their pets’ needs before their own. For this type of
owner, pet insurance can be a smart investment that can prevent
considerable costs and bring peace of mind.
Pet insurance is not a good investment for owners who don’t have
a strong emotional tie to their pet. Owners who would rather have
their pets euthanized than spend money on vet bills are not good
candidates for pet insurance.
Step two: Decide What Type of Coverage You Want
Most pet owners will weigh two main considerations when shopping
for pet insurance: budget and coverage. Peace of mind can also be
an important factor, but far more difficult to quantify.
Pet health insurance is still relatively new in the United States
and Canada, so the options available are fewer than for other
forms of insurance. That said, North American pet owners can
choose from a variety of coverage choices, ranging from
injury/accident-only to all-inclusive.
As with all insurance products, the cost of pet insurance
increases as the coverage improves. As a pet owner, you must
decide what is the right balance between affordability and the
care you want for your pet.
- Coverage
When choosing pet insurance coverage, first consider what kind of
insurance customer you are. Do you prefer all-inclusive coverage
that pays for everything from routine checkups and vaccinations
to accidents and chronic illnesses, or are you comfortable with a
lesser degree of coverage that just kicks in during emergencies?
Perhaps you prefer a flexible plan that offers discounts on a
wide range of services, from veterinary care to training. This
decision will lay the groundwork for your final choice.
Some issues to consider:
Make sure to check for coverage of pre-existing conditions as
well as breed-specific genetic ailments, such as hip dysplasia
for large dogs. Some plans refuse to cover these conditions.
Some plans place limits on annual, per-incident, per-illness or
lifetime costs.
How old is your pet? Coverage usually starts at eight weeks, but
some plans won’t cover pets over a certain age (usually between
six and 10 years old, depending on the breed, type of animal and
other factors).
- Cost
Payment options for pet insurance include flat fees or
deductibles and/or co-payments. Not surprisingly, plans with
lower monthly premiums come with higher deductibles and/or larger
co-payments.
Some issues to consider:
Insurance premiums are affected by the age, health and breed of
your pet, as well as the type of animal.
Some plans offers discounts for multiple pets.
Plans generally require customers to pay the vet bill first and
then submit receipts for reimbursement.
Find out if the insurance premiums will increase as your pet
ages.
Depending on the plan you choose, the monthly premiums can range
from less than $10 to about $40.
Step three: Choose an Insurer
You’ve determined what you can afford to spend and the amount of
pet insurance coverage you want.
Before selecting an insurer, here are some final considerations:
Make a list of your questions and priorities in advance. Make
sure to answer or check off each item when reviewing plan
options.
Research the insurer thoroughly. Review its website and sales
materials, read its testimonials, talk to other pet owners and
look for on-line reviews. How long has the company been in
business? Are its customers satisfied? Make sure you feel
comfortable about everything you hear or read.
Compare the plan’s benefit schedule with your vet’s fees to
determine to what degree the plan will cover the actual treatment
costs.
Find out how quickly the insurance company reimburses customers’
claim payments and if it has claim deadlines.
Read the fine print. Make sure you completely understand the
plan’s benefits and, more importantly, the limitations. If
something isn’t clear, ask – and get the answer in writing.
Otherwise, you might find you don’t have the coverage you need if
an accident occurs.
Start a file for your pet. Use it for all receipts and insurance
paperwork so you can keep on top of your claims and make sure you
are maximizing your insurance investment.
Your responsibility as a pet owner doesn't end with food, shelter
and affection. Pet health insurance can give the smallest member
of your family a longer and healthier life – and provide you with
more time to enjoy the unconditional love it so willingly offers
to you.
Monday, September 24, 2007
A Pet is Part of the Family
by David the Dogman
A Pet is Part of the Family and has the following rights.
1. We have the right to be full members of your family. We thrive on social interaction, praise, and love.
2. We have the right to stimulation. We need new games, new toys, new experiences, and new smells to be happy.
3. We have the right to regular exercise. Without it, we could become hyper, sluggish...or fat.
4. We have the right to have fun. We enjoy acting like clowns now and then; don't expect us to be predictable all the time.
5. We have the right to quality health care. Please stay good friends with our vet!
6. We have the right to a good diet. Like some people, we don't know what's best for us. We depend on you.
7. We have the right not to be rejected because of your expectations that we be great show dogs, watchdogs, hunters, or baby-sitters.
8. We have the right to receive proper training. Otherwise, our good relationship could be marred by confusion and strife and we could become dangerous to ourselves and others.
9. We have the right to guidance and correction based on understanding and compassion, rather than abuse.
10. We have the right to live with dignity...and to die with dignity when the time comes.
A Pet is Part of the Family and has the following rights.
1. We have the right to be full members of your family. We thrive on social interaction, praise, and love.
2. We have the right to stimulation. We need new games, new toys, new experiences, and new smells to be happy.
3. We have the right to regular exercise. Without it, we could become hyper, sluggish...or fat.
4. We have the right to have fun. We enjoy acting like clowns now and then; don't expect us to be predictable all the time.
5. We have the right to quality health care. Please stay good friends with our vet!
6. We have the right to a good diet. Like some people, we don't know what's best for us. We depend on you.
7. We have the right not to be rejected because of your expectations that we be great show dogs, watchdogs, hunters, or baby-sitters.
8. We have the right to receive proper training. Otherwise, our good relationship could be marred by confusion and strife and we could become dangerous to ourselves and others.
9. We have the right to guidance and correction based on understanding and compassion, rather than abuse.
10. We have the right to live with dignity...and to die with dignity when the time comes.
Monday, September 10, 2007
The Top Five Tips For Finding A Dog Friendly Hotel
Before you set out on a trip with your dog, you should gather all the information you can about possible hotels, motels, or bed and breakfasts at your destination. Currently there are 65 million dog owners in the US and approximately 19% take their pets with them when they travel. According to AAA, more than 13,000 hotels nationwide are now pet friendly.
Some hotels require the owner to sign an agreement to pay for any damage that the dog may do, while others require a refundable damage deposit. The larger hotel chains won’t charge extra for the pets stay, while others charge $10.00 to $50.00 extra per pet per day, so it pays to shop around. Most of the hotels surveyed prefer smaller dogs, (less than 30 pounds), but many have no weight limit, so again, do your homework before you go. The list of amenities for pets is growing, especially in the larger hotel chains. A short list includes, “doggie daycare”, walking services, pet play areas, grooming services including “pawdicures”, and even special pet menus that include foods prepared by the hotels chef, served in a special doggie bowl, placemat, bottled water, and a complimentary chew toy. You can do much to make your dog popular with the management. Inquire at the time you register where you can take him for a walk and all pet policies that apply. The following tips can make the difference between being invited back and being asked to leave:
-Be respectful toward other guests and always keep your pet on a leash when you leave your hotel room -Keep identification on your pet, and some hotels require proof of vaccinations. -After walking your pet always clean up after him -Keep your pet contained in the bathroom or in a crate if he is left alone in the room -Always take your pets personal items such as his food bowl, chew toys, bed or blanket to help him in strange surroundings -Avoid messes on the carpet by having your pet eat in the bathroom
Most dogs are excellent travelers, better behaved than some children. The strange environments and experiences will make your pet feel more dependent on you. He will stick closer to you and obey you more promptly than he does at home. So the responsibility for his good behavior rests on your shoulders. You will have no problems if you simply anticipate your dog’s needs and provide for them.
Some hotels require the owner to sign an agreement to pay for any damage that the dog may do, while others require a refundable damage deposit. The larger hotel chains won’t charge extra for the pets stay, while others charge $10.00 to $50.00 extra per pet per day, so it pays to shop around. Most of the hotels surveyed prefer smaller dogs, (less than 30 pounds), but many have no weight limit, so again, do your homework before you go. The list of amenities for pets is growing, especially in the larger hotel chains. A short list includes, “doggie daycare”, walking services, pet play areas, grooming services including “pawdicures”, and even special pet menus that include foods prepared by the hotels chef, served in a special doggie bowl, placemat, bottled water, and a complimentary chew toy. You can do much to make your dog popular with the management. Inquire at the time you register where you can take him for a walk and all pet policies that apply. The following tips can make the difference between being invited back and being asked to leave:
-Be respectful toward other guests and always keep your pet on a leash when you leave your hotel room -Keep identification on your pet, and some hotels require proof of vaccinations. -After walking your pet always clean up after him -Keep your pet contained in the bathroom or in a crate if he is left alone in the room -Always take your pets personal items such as his food bowl, chew toys, bed or blanket to help him in strange surroundings -Avoid messes on the carpet by having your pet eat in the bathroom
Most dogs are excellent travelers, better behaved than some children. The strange environments and experiences will make your pet feel more dependent on you. He will stick closer to you and obey you more promptly than he does at home. So the responsibility for his good behavior rests on your shoulders. You will have no problems if you simply anticipate your dog’s needs and provide for them.
Thursday, August 09, 2007
Natural Food for Dogs and Cats
by: David the Dogman
I have discovered that when it comes to feeding dogs that many owners are blinded by myths and misconceptions. Many owners insist that their dogs are practically human and so should get along fine on the same food that the rest of the family is eating. The irony here, of course, is that most human meals are not all that nourishing. What may be healthy enough and appropriate for humans may be not be suitable for a dog or cat. I can understand that many owners will not give their dogs and cats conventional pet food. For those who are looking for a healthy diet I offer the following diet, which is on the basis that I have witnessed sick dogs that have been on steroids and strong drugs scratching and licking themselves, failing to put on weight that have completely changed after a few weeks on this diet. The food has to be naturally fresh, but for food to be fresh and alive it must not be sterile and neutral in biological form. The food must not have any chemical contamination or additives. The first rule of this diet is that no food can be cooked in a microwave. Bear in mind that dogs and cats are hunters and need fresh food, and it should be varied and always balanced. Meat and fish should be served raw but vegetables and cereals should be cooked lightly. Exercise your pet every day and only give this diet once a day preferably after exercise in the morning. Cats may have two meals a day.
THE MEAL OF THE DAY
Cook for 2 minutes in boiled water 3 to 4 vegetables (6/800 grams) with brown rice, or oats, pasta cereals, whole wheat bread.
Raw meat or fish approx.
* 200 grams of beef, stomach, heart, jaw chuck (The least expensive meat)
* Give only horse meat if the dog is to have long periods of exercise and training.
* Chicken: Heart, stomach, no liver or kidneys.
* Never give your pet pork or pork products.
Every seventh day no meat or fish, only vegetables with cereals.
Include every day two tablespoons of one of the following: - olive oil, wheatgerm, cod liver oil, brewers yeast, seaweed, honey.
Never give your dog any snacks of sugar, sweets, and chocolates. Raw fruit or vegetables, raw cereals, nuts avocado, olive, carrot, apple.
I have discovered that when it comes to feeding dogs that many owners are blinded by myths and misconceptions. Many owners insist that their dogs are practically human and so should get along fine on the same food that the rest of the family is eating. The irony here, of course, is that most human meals are not all that nourishing. What may be healthy enough and appropriate for humans may be not be suitable for a dog or cat. I can understand that many owners will not give their dogs and cats conventional pet food. For those who are looking for a healthy diet I offer the following diet, which is on the basis that I have witnessed sick dogs that have been on steroids and strong drugs scratching and licking themselves, failing to put on weight that have completely changed after a few weeks on this diet. The food has to be naturally fresh, but for food to be fresh and alive it must not be sterile and neutral in biological form. The food must not have any chemical contamination or additives. The first rule of this diet is that no food can be cooked in a microwave. Bear in mind that dogs and cats are hunters and need fresh food, and it should be varied and always balanced. Meat and fish should be served raw but vegetables and cereals should be cooked lightly. Exercise your pet every day and only give this diet once a day preferably after exercise in the morning. Cats may have two meals a day.
THE MEAL OF THE DAY
Cook for 2 minutes in boiled water 3 to 4 vegetables (6/800 grams) with brown rice, or oats, pasta cereals, whole wheat bread.
Raw meat or fish approx.
* 200 grams of beef, stomach, heart, jaw chuck (The least expensive meat)
* Give only horse meat if the dog is to have long periods of exercise and training.
* Chicken: Heart, stomach, no liver or kidneys.
* Never give your pet pork or pork products.
Every seventh day no meat or fish, only vegetables with cereals.
Include every day two tablespoons of one of the following: - olive oil, wheatgerm, cod liver oil, brewers yeast, seaweed, honey.
Never give your dog any snacks of sugar, sweets, and chocolates. Raw fruit or vegetables, raw cereals, nuts avocado, olive, carrot, apple.
Thursday, August 02, 2007
Dog and Cat Allergies
by: David the Dogman
There is no breed of dog not even a Poodle or Chihuahua that will not trigger sneezes, rashes or asthmatic reactions. Allergic reactions can vary from dog to dog or cat to cat according to Jonathan Corren Clinical Professor of medicine and Director of the Allergy Research Foundation at the University of California.
It is the Dander and top skin and certain proteins in saliva and urine that cause people allergic problems according to Emily Rothstein a resident in dermatology at Cornhill College of Veterinary Medicine. Any dog or cat that urinates or licks has the potential to be an allergic-type breed.
Most research on pet allergies has centered on allergies to cats, maybe this is no surprise because they are twice as likely to make their owners sneeze as dogs. Longer haired cats tend to shed less allergen and consequently owners with allergies have fewer reactions. Cats that are short haired traditionally give off more allergen, it is not known if this is true for dogs.
HOW TO BEAT PET ALLERGIES
Research has shown that if a cat or dog is washed about once a week the airborne allergens are cut drastically. It is recommended that dogs should be kept outdoors at night. Dogs and cats that live indoors should not spend any time in the allergic person's bedroom and never allowed on beds.
Dander collects in the carpets. upholstered furniture and bedding so for those suffering allergies it is better to be without carpets and have wooden furniture or leather. Bedding should be encased in plastic and if it is impossible to remove carpets then these should be steamed cleaned every three months to remove allergens. It is also advisable to wash walls and floors.
Animal allergens are very small and very sticky and once they are secreted they dry on the animals fur, become stuck on fur and become airborne during petting and grooming. According to Bonnie Eiche a spokeswoman for the Asthma and Allergy Foundation "They are so small that they can stay airborne for a long time and because they are sticky, they adhere to walls, clothing, and heating and cooling ducts."
About 9 years ago I gave up smoking and noticed that I was coughing and choking when handling dogs. After a few tests I was duly informed " Mr. Dogman you are an asthmatic and allergic to dogs" "No not me....not possible thats my job" but sadly I now have to take all kind of things to help control my allergic symptoms from medication to inhalers and most important I wash my hands more than a surgeon and change my clothes about three times a day and wash my dogs every week.
But with all my allergies I could not live without dogs because I feel that dogs enhance our quality of life and are worth having around.
There is no breed of dog not even a Poodle or Chihuahua that will not trigger sneezes, rashes or asthmatic reactions. Allergic reactions can vary from dog to dog or cat to cat according to Jonathan Corren Clinical Professor of medicine and Director of the Allergy Research Foundation at the University of California.
It is the Dander and top skin and certain proteins in saliva and urine that cause people allergic problems according to Emily Rothstein a resident in dermatology at Cornhill College of Veterinary Medicine. Any dog or cat that urinates or licks has the potential to be an allergic-type breed.
Most research on pet allergies has centered on allergies to cats, maybe this is no surprise because they are twice as likely to make their owners sneeze as dogs. Longer haired cats tend to shed less allergen and consequently owners with allergies have fewer reactions. Cats that are short haired traditionally give off more allergen, it is not known if this is true for dogs.
HOW TO BEAT PET ALLERGIES
Research has shown that if a cat or dog is washed about once a week the airborne allergens are cut drastically. It is recommended that dogs should be kept outdoors at night. Dogs and cats that live indoors should not spend any time in the allergic person's bedroom and never allowed on beds.
Dander collects in the carpets. upholstered furniture and bedding so for those suffering allergies it is better to be without carpets and have wooden furniture or leather. Bedding should be encased in plastic and if it is impossible to remove carpets then these should be steamed cleaned every three months to remove allergens. It is also advisable to wash walls and floors.
Animal allergens are very small and very sticky and once they are secreted they dry on the animals fur, become stuck on fur and become airborne during petting and grooming. According to Bonnie Eiche a spokeswoman for the Asthma and Allergy Foundation "They are so small that they can stay airborne for a long time and because they are sticky, they adhere to walls, clothing, and heating and cooling ducts."
About 9 years ago I gave up smoking and noticed that I was coughing and choking when handling dogs. After a few tests I was duly informed " Mr. Dogman you are an asthmatic and allergic to dogs" "No not me....not possible thats my job" but sadly I now have to take all kind of things to help control my allergic symptoms from medication to inhalers and most important I wash my hands more than a surgeon and change my clothes about three times a day and wash my dogs every week.
But with all my allergies I could not live without dogs because I feel that dogs enhance our quality of life and are worth having around.
Monday, July 30, 2007
Many Forms of Dog Beds
by: James Hunt
In today's society animals are sometimes being treated better than humans are. One of the latest ways people have created to pamper their pets are pet beds. These beds come in many forms many forms and for many animals. The most popular form of pet beds is dog beds. Dog beds are very popular among pet owners. In most cases the people who spend a great deal of money on a bed for their dog are those who could be considered upper class. Other people may possibly make their dog beds.
Dog beds take many forms. Traditionally dogs were given a box with a blanket, if they were permitted to stay inside the house. In most cases the dog was placed outside in the yard in a doghouse, which once again had a blanket. The box and the blanket was the easiest and simplest form that a dog bed could take. As years went on and people became more and more aware of animal rights and what classified as animal abuse, they began treating their pets better and tried to find more comfortable places for their dogs to sleep. People exchanged boxes and blankets for pillows. People either made or purchased oversized pillows for their dogs to sleep on. At first the pillows were thin and not really fancy. There were made out of whatever materials were available. Today however, people are willing to spend hundreds of dollars for a large pillow for their dog. These pillows or dog beds can be purchased at most pet supply stores or in pet stores in general. You may also find some form of dog bed at the vets office. If you live in certain parts of the United States there are people who specialize in making dog beds. These designers of dog beds make them in a variety of shapes and sizes. They are made out of variety of materials. For example you could have dog beds that are made out of silk or you could have bed made from a more simple material such as flannel. You can also find dog beds online at some dog supply stores. Here you will be able to browse through the selection of dog beds that are available. The prices of the dog beds will vary depending on make and size and of course material. There may be an additional cost for shipping and handling when you order your dog beds online.
In today's society animals are sometimes being treated better than humans are. One of the latest ways people have created to pamper their pets are pet beds. These beds come in many forms many forms and for many animals. The most popular form of pet beds is dog beds. Dog beds are very popular among pet owners. In most cases the people who spend a great deal of money on a bed for their dog are those who could be considered upper class. Other people may possibly make their dog beds.
Dog beds take many forms. Traditionally dogs were given a box with a blanket, if they were permitted to stay inside the house. In most cases the dog was placed outside in the yard in a doghouse, which once again had a blanket. The box and the blanket was the easiest and simplest form that a dog bed could take. As years went on and people became more and more aware of animal rights and what classified as animal abuse, they began treating their pets better and tried to find more comfortable places for their dogs to sleep. People exchanged boxes and blankets for pillows. People either made or purchased oversized pillows for their dogs to sleep on. At first the pillows were thin and not really fancy. There were made out of whatever materials were available. Today however, people are willing to spend hundreds of dollars for a large pillow for their dog. These pillows or dog beds can be purchased at most pet supply stores or in pet stores in general. You may also find some form of dog bed at the vets office. If you live in certain parts of the United States there are people who specialize in making dog beds. These designers of dog beds make them in a variety of shapes and sizes. They are made out of variety of materials. For example you could have dog beds that are made out of silk or you could have bed made from a more simple material such as flannel. You can also find dog beds online at some dog supply stores. Here you will be able to browse through the selection of dog beds that are available. The prices of the dog beds will vary depending on make and size and of course material. There may be an additional cost for shipping and handling when you order your dog beds online.
Tuesday, June 26, 2007
The Royal Shih Tzu It's Origins and Characteristics
by:Richard Cussons
The Shih Tzu (pronounced “Sheet-sue”) has a lot of spunk and is a very alert and resilient dog. Like all dogs in the Toy dog group, Shih Tzus have a lot of character and are courageous for their size. Throughout history they were raised as pampered pooches in the Imperial Chinese Court. Bred in the forbidden city of Peking, the Shih Tzu didn’t leave China until the early 20th century when they first appeared in Britain. Today they are a popular breed worldwide.
Shih Tzus are good watchdogs and eagerly alert their owners to the approach of strangers. He does enjoy barking, but rarely does so without reason. He is very clever and responds well to persistent training. Without training the Shih Tzu will become extremely overprotective of their owner and aggressive towards other people.
Children and Shih Tzus get along famously as long as the child understands how to play with the dog. A Shih Tzu will not tolerate teasing young children and will snap at them. The Shih doesn’t mind the presence of other family pets, but his true joy is when he is in the company of his human family.
One of the aspects about Shih Tzus that surprise many owners is the fact that this breed is very active despite his small size. At his tallest, the Shih Tzu only stands 11 inches, and weighs no more than 16 pounds. Nevertheless, although this breed can be really active when it wants to be, they can also be quite lazy and will lie in their favorite spots whenever they have the chance. Therefore, it is important that the Shih Tzu receives the exercise he needs to make sure he doesn’t become overweight.
Due to the fact that Shih Tzus are small dogs and they are relatively inactive indoors, they make fantastic apartment dogs and wonderful dogs for seniors. Furthermore, the Shih Tzu is an ideal dog for anyone who has allergies as his coat does not shed. Of course, the down side to most non shedding dog is the required daily grooming of their coat – the Shih Tzu is no exception.
The Shihs coat is available in almost every color and bi-color combination. If kept long, the coat will need to be brushed a few times a day to keep it free from mats. His eyes will need to be cleaned to discourage the build up of discharge that can lead to eye infections. The owner will also need to make sure the hair on top of the Shih Tzus head is kept tied up and out of the dog’s eyes to avoid aggravating them. The Shih Tzu should have a bath every month, and should be trimmed every few months to keep the desired look.
As with any pet, owning a dog is a huge commitment that must be met for the entire life of a dog. The average lifespan of a Shih Tzu is 15 years or more. Considering he has a decent life expectancy for a canine, it should come as no surprise that this breed does not suffer any major hereditary health defects. Nevertheless, no dog is perfect. The Shih Tzu is still susceptible to illnesses. The health issues that appear to be the most common in the breed include ear, eye, respiratory, back and teeth problems.
The Shih Tzu will bring plenty of joy and happiness to anyone willing to share their life and affection with this regal and loving dog.
The Shih Tzu (pronounced “Sheet-sue”) has a lot of spunk and is a very alert and resilient dog. Like all dogs in the Toy dog group, Shih Tzus have a lot of character and are courageous for their size. Throughout history they were raised as pampered pooches in the Imperial Chinese Court. Bred in the forbidden city of Peking, the Shih Tzu didn’t leave China until the early 20th century when they first appeared in Britain. Today they are a popular breed worldwide.
Shih Tzus are good watchdogs and eagerly alert their owners to the approach of strangers. He does enjoy barking, but rarely does so without reason. He is very clever and responds well to persistent training. Without training the Shih Tzu will become extremely overprotective of their owner and aggressive towards other people.
Children and Shih Tzus get along famously as long as the child understands how to play with the dog. A Shih Tzu will not tolerate teasing young children and will snap at them. The Shih doesn’t mind the presence of other family pets, but his true joy is when he is in the company of his human family.
One of the aspects about Shih Tzus that surprise many owners is the fact that this breed is very active despite his small size. At his tallest, the Shih Tzu only stands 11 inches, and weighs no more than 16 pounds. Nevertheless, although this breed can be really active when it wants to be, they can also be quite lazy and will lie in their favorite spots whenever they have the chance. Therefore, it is important that the Shih Tzu receives the exercise he needs to make sure he doesn’t become overweight.
Due to the fact that Shih Tzus are small dogs and they are relatively inactive indoors, they make fantastic apartment dogs and wonderful dogs for seniors. Furthermore, the Shih Tzu is an ideal dog for anyone who has allergies as his coat does not shed. Of course, the down side to most non shedding dog is the required daily grooming of their coat – the Shih Tzu is no exception.
The Shihs coat is available in almost every color and bi-color combination. If kept long, the coat will need to be brushed a few times a day to keep it free from mats. His eyes will need to be cleaned to discourage the build up of discharge that can lead to eye infections. The owner will also need to make sure the hair on top of the Shih Tzus head is kept tied up and out of the dog’s eyes to avoid aggravating them. The Shih Tzu should have a bath every month, and should be trimmed every few months to keep the desired look.
As with any pet, owning a dog is a huge commitment that must be met for the entire life of a dog. The average lifespan of a Shih Tzu is 15 years or more. Considering he has a decent life expectancy for a canine, it should come as no surprise that this breed does not suffer any major hereditary health defects. Nevertheless, no dog is perfect. The Shih Tzu is still susceptible to illnesses. The health issues that appear to be the most common in the breed include ear, eye, respiratory, back and teeth problems.
The Shih Tzu will bring plenty of joy and happiness to anyone willing to share their life and affection with this regal and loving dog.
Basic First Aid
by David the Dogman
As an ardent reader of the Collins Dog Photoguide I came across this article, which I feel, might be of interest to readers.
Traffic Accidents
A traffic accident is probably the most common cause of serious injury to a cat or dog. Always approach the animal with caution, it may react aggressively because of the pain.
Move the dog as little as possible, but if you must move it, it is probably best to use a blanket, sliding it underneath the dog. Seek the assistance of another person and lift the dog gently to safety. Check for heartbeat and any haemorrhaging. Attempt to stem excessive bleeding by holding a clean pad or clean handkerchief over the wound, binding it tightly with a makeshift bandage. Call the nearest vet's surgery to warn of your arrival.
Burns
The only recommended first aid is to clean off the offending substance and immerse the body part under cold running water for as long as possible. Seek professional advice immediately.
Heat Stroke
This occurs most commonly when a dog has been left alone on a hot day without ventilation. If your dog has not already collapsed it may be panting, vomiting or frothing at the mouth.
Remove froth and lower the dog's temperature as soon as possible by placing or dousing the animal in cold water. Take the dog to the vet immediately where it will be treated with drugs and more cold water.
Poisoning
Signs of poisoning may include collapse, muscular twitching, vomiting, bleeding or convulsion. Do not hesitate to contact the vet. Take some of the noxious substance to the vet with you if you know what it is. If the dog has recently swallowed the poison, try to make it vomit. Salt and mustard in water will usually work quickly, or a small piece of washing soda (sodium carbonate pushed down the throat.
Drowning
It is a popular misconception that all dogs can swim, but this is not always the case. You must attempt to empty the dog's lungs of water as soon as possible. You must attempt to empty the dog's lungs of water as soon as possible. Place the dog's head lower than its body, open its mouth and begin to pump the chest by pressing down on the ribs and releasing the pressure immediately. Repeat at five-second intervals.
Choking
Sometimes a piece of stick, bone or small rubber ball may get stuck in a dog's throat. Your dog may be unable to breath as a result and swift action is necessary.
Open the dog's mouth carefully and see if you can see the object. Pumping the chest, as in the case of drowning (see above) may dislodge the foreign body, get your dog to the vet as soon as possible where the object can be removed under anaesthetic.
Commitment, Firmness, but kindness.
As an ardent reader of the Collins Dog Photoguide I came across this article, which I feel, might be of interest to readers.
Traffic Accidents
A traffic accident is probably the most common cause of serious injury to a cat or dog. Always approach the animal with caution, it may react aggressively because of the pain.
Move the dog as little as possible, but if you must move it, it is probably best to use a blanket, sliding it underneath the dog. Seek the assistance of another person and lift the dog gently to safety. Check for heartbeat and any haemorrhaging. Attempt to stem excessive bleeding by holding a clean pad or clean handkerchief over the wound, binding it tightly with a makeshift bandage. Call the nearest vet's surgery to warn of your arrival.
Burns
The only recommended first aid is to clean off the offending substance and immerse the body part under cold running water for as long as possible. Seek professional advice immediately.
Heat Stroke
This occurs most commonly when a dog has been left alone on a hot day without ventilation. If your dog has not already collapsed it may be panting, vomiting or frothing at the mouth.
Remove froth and lower the dog's temperature as soon as possible by placing or dousing the animal in cold water. Take the dog to the vet immediately where it will be treated with drugs and more cold water.
Poisoning
Signs of poisoning may include collapse, muscular twitching, vomiting, bleeding or convulsion. Do not hesitate to contact the vet. Take some of the noxious substance to the vet with you if you know what it is. If the dog has recently swallowed the poison, try to make it vomit. Salt and mustard in water will usually work quickly, or a small piece of washing soda (sodium carbonate pushed down the throat.
Drowning
It is a popular misconception that all dogs can swim, but this is not always the case. You must attempt to empty the dog's lungs of water as soon as possible. You must attempt to empty the dog's lungs of water as soon as possible. Place the dog's head lower than its body, open its mouth and begin to pump the chest by pressing down on the ribs and releasing the pressure immediately. Repeat at five-second intervals.
Choking
Sometimes a piece of stick, bone or small rubber ball may get stuck in a dog's throat. Your dog may be unable to breath as a result and swift action is necessary.
Open the dog's mouth carefully and see if you can see the object. Pumping the chest, as in the case of drowning (see above) may dislodge the foreign body, get your dog to the vet as soon as possible where the object can be removed under anaesthetic.
Commitment, Firmness, but kindness.
Friday, April 27, 2007
How to Protect Yourself When you Walk Your Dog
by:Dennis Fetko
Be careful when you walk your dog. A few years ago I worked with the San Diego County Sheriff’s Department on a case. Evidence indicates the fellow was walking his dog in a rural area when 5 dogs belonging to a new neighbor attacked his small dog. To prevent injury to his dog, the fellow picked it up. The loose dogs caused so much damage to his body that he died.
I was recently retained in a similar case. Since the bite victim survived, we know what happened. A young woman was walking her dog when it was attacked by a loose dog. She picked it up to hold it away from the attacker, and she sustained severe injuries resulting in loss of hand use and permanent disfigurement. People, DO NOT PICK UP YOUR DOG TO SAVE IT FROM ATTACK. Not only will this act NOT stop the attack, it will include YOU as a target. It’s hard to stand by while your dog is being attacked, but picking it up or getting between the attacker and your dog will likely lead to severe injury to you.
I always carry a deterrent when I walk dogs off my property. An ultrasonic transducer, a citronella spray device, even just a coach’s whistle to startle an approaching dog is better than nothing. I also DO NOT TOLERATE loose dogs. If you do, shame on you. You invite an incident.
If you have no deterrent and a dog attacks, drop the lead and stay away from the fracas. I KNOW how hard this is to do. But if you leave your property with NO deterrent, you’ve already chosen to be impotent in case of attack. I don’t know why you’d choose to be unable to defend yourself or your dog against attack, but if you make that choice, do not blame only the aggressing dog.
For all you know, he was just defending his territory against your dog’s intrusion. He may be defending puppies or a new baby in the home. Since you cannot know whether or not this is true, be prepared. But DO NOT PICK UP YOUR DOG. The only thing worse than having your wonderful dog injured or killed is to have you injured, disfigured, or killed. You can take steps to prevent that. Please do so.
Be careful when you walk your dog. A few years ago I worked with the San Diego County Sheriff’s Department on a case. Evidence indicates the fellow was walking his dog in a rural area when 5 dogs belonging to a new neighbor attacked his small dog. To prevent injury to his dog, the fellow picked it up. The loose dogs caused so much damage to his body that he died.
I was recently retained in a similar case. Since the bite victim survived, we know what happened. A young woman was walking her dog when it was attacked by a loose dog. She picked it up to hold it away from the attacker, and she sustained severe injuries resulting in loss of hand use and permanent disfigurement. People, DO NOT PICK UP YOUR DOG TO SAVE IT FROM ATTACK. Not only will this act NOT stop the attack, it will include YOU as a target. It’s hard to stand by while your dog is being attacked, but picking it up or getting between the attacker and your dog will likely lead to severe injury to you.
I always carry a deterrent when I walk dogs off my property. An ultrasonic transducer, a citronella spray device, even just a coach’s whistle to startle an approaching dog is better than nothing. I also DO NOT TOLERATE loose dogs. If you do, shame on you. You invite an incident.
If you have no deterrent and a dog attacks, drop the lead and stay away from the fracas. I KNOW how hard this is to do. But if you leave your property with NO deterrent, you’ve already chosen to be impotent in case of attack. I don’t know why you’d choose to be unable to defend yourself or your dog against attack, but if you make that choice, do not blame only the aggressing dog.
For all you know, he was just defending his territory against your dog’s intrusion. He may be defending puppies or a new baby in the home. Since you cannot know whether or not this is true, be prepared. But DO NOT PICK UP YOUR DOG. The only thing worse than having your wonderful dog injured or killed is to have you injured, disfigured, or killed. You can take steps to prevent that. Please do so.
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